Side Trips

Papa Stour

Papa Stour, the "great island of priests," is shaped like a large starfish and lies off the west coast of Mainland, 40km (25 miles) northwest of Lerwick. As its name indicates, it was an early base for monks. Two centuries ago there was a leper colony here on the little offshore islet of Brei Holm.

Legend has it that its profusion of wildflowers had such a strong scent that old fishermen could use the perfume -- borne far out on the wind -- to fix their positions. Papa Stour is very isolated, and once it was feared the island might be depopulated, but about 26 settlers live here now.

In the darkest days of winter, bad weather can cut it off for days. But if you see it on a sunny day, it's striking. Encircled by pillars of rock and reefs, its sea caves, sculpted by turbulent winds and raging seas, are among the most impressive in Britain. The largest of these is Kirstan's Hole, extending some 73m (240 ft.).

Boats go to Papa Stour about seven times per day, 5 days a week, from West Burrafirth on Mainland, at a cost of £3 ($5.70) each way. Call Mr. Clark at tel. 01595/810-460 for information on these constantly changing details.

Foula

This tiny, remote island is only 5km (3 miles) wide by 8km (5 miles) long, with five high peaks. Called the "Island West of the Sun," Foula may have been the Romans' legendary Thule. In local dialect, foula means "bird island" -- and the name fits. Uncountable numbers of birds haunt the isle. Its towering sea cliffs include the second-highest cliff face in Britain, the Kame, at 370m (1,220 ft.). About 3,000 pairs of the world's great skuas, known as "bonxie," live here. You'll hear many stories about the rock-climbing prowess of locals who go in search of gulls' eggs.

The island lies 43km (27 miles) west of Scalloway, on the west coast of Mainland, and the locals are vastly outnumbered by sheep. Until the beginning of the 19th century, Old Norse was the language spoken. Its 400 people remain very traditional. If you're lucky, you might see them dance the Foula reel, a classic dance in Shetland.

If the weather's right, a weekly mailboat sails to Foula from Walls on Mainland. Even in summer, the seas are likely to be turbulent, and in winter, Foula has been known to be cut off from the rest of Britain for weeks. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours. Loganair also operates a summer service from Tingwall on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; trip time is 15 minutes.

Yell & Unst

The second-largest island in the Shetlands, Yell measures 9.6km (6 miles) north to south, with a population that has shrunk to 1,000, down from its high of 2,600 in 1841. This is the least cultivated Scottish Island because the majority of it lies under a peat blanket 3m (10 ft.) deep. The Yell Ferry is one of the "roll-on/roll-off" ferries sailing between Toft, near Mossbank on the mainland, to Ulstra at the southwesterly corner of Yell. The crossing from Toft to Ulstra takes about 25 minutes, with ferries generally leaving throughout the day at half-hour intervals. A car, driver, and adult passenger pays £5 ($9.50) one-way, and booking for the ferry is possible Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 5pm by calling tel. 01957/722-259.

From Yell, remote and beautiful Unst is easy to reach. Drive along A968 to the little harbor at Gutcher, northeast of Yell. The Shetland Island's Council (tel. 01595/743-980 for schedules) operates a ferry crossing from here fairly frequently each day. The cost is £7 ($13) for a car and driver, £3 ($5.70) for each extra adult, and 40p (75¢) per child. Loganair (tel. 01595/840-246) flies to Unst from both Lerwick and Sumburgh, once a day from Monday to Friday.

An Old Norse longhouse, believed to date from the 9th century, was excavated at Underhoull. The best beach is at Skaw, set against the backdrop of Saxa Vord, legendary home of the giant Saxi. A drive to the top will reward you with a view of the Burra Firth. Visitors go to Haroldswick to mail their cards and letters in the northernmost post office in the British Isles.

The roll-on/roll-off car ferry from Yell comes into Belmont. Nearby is Muness Castle, constructed in 1598 by Laurence Bruce, a relative of the notorious Earl Patrick Stewart, who ruled Shetland so harshly. Built with rubble and known for its fine architectural detail, the castle was inhabited for less than a century. Normally it's open April to September, daily 9am to 7pm. If it's closed, ask for the key at Mrs. Peterson's cottage across the way. For information, call tel. 01856/841-815.

The ruins of the Kirk of Lund, dating from the Middle Ages, can be seen on Unst, which is also home to the Hermaness Bird Reserve, one of the most important ornithological sites in Britain. Ideal for scenic walks, its 182m (600-ft.) cliffs are filled with kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots, and the inevitable puffins.