Regions in Brief

Lerwick

The capital of the Shetlands since the 17th century, Lerwick, on the eastern coast of Mainland, is sheltered by the little offshore island of Bressay. In the 19th century, it was the herring capital of northern Europe, and, before that, a haven for smugglers. The fishing fleet of the Netherlands puts in here after combing the North Sea. Even before Victoria came to the throne in 1837, Lerwick had a bustling, cosmopolitan atmosphere. And, with the influx of foreign visitors, it's even livelier.

Believe it or not, Lerwick is sometimes the sunniest place in Britain, experiencing some 12 hours of sunshine a day in early summer. Commercial Street is the town's principal artery, and it's said that beneath the steep and narrow lanes runs a network of passages used by smugglers. Lerwick today is the main port and shopping center of Shetland.

South Mainland

This part of Shetland, reached by heading south from Lerwick along A970, is both ancient and modern. On the one hand, there's the gleaming Sumburgh Airport, which has played a major role in the North Sea oilfields development and services many of the offshore rigs today. On the other hand, you'll stumble on the ruins of Jarlshof , which may have been inhabited for some 3,000 years.

North Mainland

The Shetlands' most rugged scenery is in the northern part of Mainland. Some visitors have found that the area reminds them of Norway, and we agree. That's especially true in the tiny village of Voe, with its little wooden houses.

Heading north from Voe along A970, you reach the eastern junction of B9071, which takes you to Vidlin, where the Lunna Kirk, one of the oldest churches in the archipelago, still holds services. Construction began in 1753. The church has a "leper hole," from which the poor victims could listen to the sermon without being seen.

Heading west back to A970, continue north to Mavis Grind, a narrow isthmus marking the point where the North Mainland is at its most narrow. The touristy thing to do in North Mainland is to pause at Mavis Grind, take a couple of stones, and throw one to your right into the North Sea and the other to your left into the Atlantic Ocean.

Near the villages of Brae and Busta, you find some of the best food and hotels in Shetland. Oil contractors, helicopter pilots, and shipping executives sent by mainland companies to service the nearby Sullom Voe, site of the largest oil terminal in Europe, often stay in this area.

If you head north along A970, we suggest you take the secondary road going west to Esha Ness, where you'll come upon the most dramatic cliff scenery not only in Shetland but in all of Britain. This is simply a gorgeous area for hiking.