Planning a Trip

The Arctic isn't like any other place. That observation may seem elementary, but even a well-prepared first-timer will experience many things here to startle -- and perhaps offend -- the senses.

No matter where you start from, the Arctic is a long way away. By far the easiest way to get there is by plane. Whitehorse, Yellowknife, and Iqaluit all have airports with daily service from major Canadian cities. Each of these towns is a center for a network of smaller airlines with regularly scheduled flights to yet smaller communities; here you'll also find charter services to take you to incredibly out-of-the-way destinations.

Tucked inland just east of Alaska, the Yukon is home to one of the most notable fortune hunts of all times: the Klondike Gold Rush. From 1898 to 1920, Dawson City was the destination of tens of thousands of prospectors -- and other types of gold diggers -- who were lured north by the dream of easy wealth. Today, Dawson City and territorial capital Whitehorse are still very lively and filled with history, though many of today's travelers are drawn as much to recreation on the Yukon's rivers, lakes, and mountains as to the trail of bonanza gold.

Until 1999, the Northwest Territories designated the entire northern tier of Canada (except the Yukon). Then Nunavut, comprising the eastern mainland and many of the arctic islands, split away to form a separate territory and a de facto homeland for the Inuit peoples. Centered on Baffin Island and the capital Iqualuit, Nunavut is an extremely far-flung territory made of up remote Native villages, expanses of tundra, and craggy, glacier-crowned islands.

The remaining Northwest Territories is sometimes referred to as the western Arctic. Mining is the prime economic driver, with everything from gold to silver to diamonds extracted from the tundra. The capital of Yellowknife is a hells-a-poppin' kind of city, born of a gold rush and sustained by high-paying government and mining industry jobs. Vast glacial-dug lakes provide lakefront for rustic to ritzy fishing lodges.

Visitor Information

For information, write Tourism Yukon, P.O. Box 2703, Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2C6 (tel. 800/661-0494; www.touryukon.com). Be sure to ask for a copy of the official vacation guide Yukon: Canada's True North.

For the Northwest Territories, contact NWT Arctic Tourism, P.O. Box 610, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2N5 (tel. 800/661-0788 or 867/873-7200; www.explorenwt.com). Ask for the free map of the province (it's almost impossible to find a map of the Territories elsewhere) and The Explorers' Guide, with full listings of accommodations and outfitters.

Information on Nunavut is at www.nunavuttourism.com, where you can download a copy of the Nunavut Travel Planner. You can also call tel. 866/686-2888 or e-mail info@nunavuttourism.com to make inquiries or request the travel planner.

Climate & Seasons

During summer, the farther north you travel, the more daylight you get. Yellowknife and Whitehorse, in the south, bask under 20 hours of sunshine a day, followed by 4 hours of milky twilight bright enough to read a newspaper by. In northern Inuvik, Northwest Territories, the summer sun shines around the clock. In midwinter, however, these towns don't see the northern sun rise at all.

The North is divided into two climatic zones: subarctic and arctic, but the division doesn't follow the Arctic Circle. And while there are permanent ice caps in the far-northern islands, summer in the rest of the land gets considerably hotter than you might think. The average high temperatures in July and August for many subarctic regions can be in the 70s and 80s (20s Celsius), and the mercury has been known to climb into the 90s (30s Celsius). However, even in summer you should bring a warm sweater or ski jacket -- and don't forget a pair of really sturdy shoes or boots.

In winter, weather conditions are truly arctic. The mercury may dip as low as -60°F (-51°C) for short periods. You'll need heavily insulated clothing and footwear to travel during this time of year. Spring is an increasingly popular time to visit, with clear sunny skies, highs around 20°F (-7°C), and days already longer than seems reasonable.

Driving the North

Setting out to drive the back roads of the Far North has a strange fascination for many people, most of whom own RVs. The most famous route through the North is the Alaska Highway, which was built during World War II to link the continental United States with Alaska via northern British Columbia and the Yukon. Today the route is mostly paved and isn't the adventure it once was. Off-road enthusiasts may prefer the Mackenzie Highway, linking Edmonton to Yellowknife. But even this road is mostly paved nowadays, which leaves the Dempster Highway (tel. 867/979-2040 highway information), between Dawson City and Inuvik, as one of the few real back roads left.

Much of the North is served by good roads, though driving up here demands different preparations than you might be used to. It's a good idea to travel with a full 20-liter (5-gal.) gas can, even though along most routes gas stations appear frequently. However, there's no guarantee these stations will be open in the evenings, on Sunday, or at the precise moment you need to fill up. By all means, fill up every time you see a gas station in remote areas.

In summer, dust can be a serious nuisance, particularly on gravel roads. When it becomes a problem, close all windows and turn on your heater fan. This builds up air pressure inside your vehicle and helps to keep the dust out. Keep cameras in plastic bags for protection.

It's a good idea to attach a bug or gravel screen and plastic headlight guards to your vehicle. And it's absolutely essential that your windshield wipers are operative and your washer reservoir full. In the Yukon, the law requires that all automobiles drive with their headlights on; it's a good idea while traveling on any gravel road.

April and May are the spring slush months, when mud and water may render some road sections hazardous. The winter months, December through March, require a lot of special driving preparations; winter isn't a good time to plan a road trip to the North.

Warning: Get Thee to an Outfitter

Outdoor enthusiasts who want to get out onto the land, the water, or the glacier will need to have the assistance of an outfitter or a local tour provider. There are no roads to speak of here, so you'll need help simply to get wherever you're going. This usually involves a boat or an airplane trip. Sports-equipment rental is all but unheard of, and it's very foolish to head out into the wilds (which start at the edge of the village) without the advice and guidance of someone who knows the terrain, weather, and other general conditions. For all these reasons -- and for the entree you'll get into the community -- you should hire an outfitter. You'll end up saving money, time, and frustration.

The Great Outdoors

Seasonal Travel -- Hiking and naturalist trips are popular in late July, August, and early September. The ice is off the ocean, allowing access by boat to otherwise-remote areas. Naturalist-led hikes out onto the tundra make great day trips.

While it may seem natural to plan a trip to the Arctic in summer, the Far North is a year-round destination. Late-winter dog-sledding trips out into the frozen wilderness are popular with adventurous souls. In May and June, dog-sled or snow-machine trips visit the edge of the ice floe, where wildlife viewing is superb. And in the dead of winter, there is the 24-hour darkness and the northern lights that lure people north.

Mosquitoes, Deerflies & Other Critters -- During summer especially, two of the most commonly heard sounds in the North are the rhythmic buzzing of winged biting insects and the cursing of their human victims. Insect repellent is a necessity, as is having a place you can get away from the mosquitoes for a while. Some hikers wear expedition hats or head nets to ward off the worst attacks. Mosquitoes can go through light fabric, which is why it's better to wear sturdy clothes even on the hottest days. Wasps, hornets, and other stinging insects are common. If you're allergic, be ready with your serum.

Wildlife -- It's easy to confuse caribou with European reindeer, as the two look very much alike and, in fact, are generally classified as the same species. But while reindeer are mostly domesticated animals, caribou are wild, and still travel in huge migrating herds that stretch to the horizon, sometimes numbering 100,000 or more. Caribou form the major food and clothing supply for many Native Canadians, whose lives cycle around the movements of the herds.

The mighty musk ox is indigenous to the Arctic. About 12,000 of them live on the northern islands. Immense and prehistoric looking, the bulls weigh up to 590 kilograms (1,300 lb.). They appear even larger because they carry a mountain of shaggy hair. Underneath the coarse outer coat, musk oxen have a silky-soft layer of underwool, called qiviut in Inuit. One pound of qiviut can be spun into a 40-strand thread 40km (25 miles) long! As light as it is soft, a sweater made from the stuff will keep its wearer warm in subzero weather. And it doesn't shrink when wet. Qiviut is extremely expensive. Once spun, it can sell for as much as C$90 (US$90/£45) an ounce.

The monarch of the Arctic, the polar bear roams the coast and the shores of Hudson Bay; you'll have to travel quite a way over mighty tough country to see one in its habitat. Weighing up to 658 kilograms (1,450 lb.), they're the largest land predators in North America. Grizzly bears are found in the boreal forests and river basins. Both animals are very dangerous; if you encounter them, give them a wide berth. The North is full of other animals much easier to observe than the bears. In the wooded regions, you'll come across wolves and wolverines (harmless to humans, despite the legends about them), mink, lynx, otter, ptarmigan, and beaver. The sleek and beautiful white or brown arctic foxes live in ice regions as well as beneath the tree line and near settlements.

Mid-July to late August, seals, walruses, narwhals, and bowhead and beluga whales are in their breeding grounds off the coast of Baffin Island and in Hudson Bay. And in the endless skies above there are eagles, hawks, owls, razor-billed auks, and ivory gulls.