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You'll find the most lodging options in Alexandria Bay, which is also where you'll find the most people. If you stay in charming little Sackets Harbor (our favorite), there are some good restaurants and bars all within walking distance. And, don't forget the Canadian side: The Frontenac Club Inn, 225 King St. East, Kingston, Ontario (tel. 613/547-6167), is an excellent choice. (Bring your passport!)

Unfortunately, all the old grand hotels patronized by the Vanderbilts and their like at the turn of the 20th century -- such as the 300-room grande dame, the Frontenac Hotel -- were claimed by fire, so you won't find any classics like the Adirondacks' Sagamore. The historic properties were replaced by motels and two-story resorts, which have the benefit of being on the water, but generally promise little else. Fortunately, there are a couple of exceptions. Few spots are open year-round, and many hotels require a 2-night minimum stay on summer weekends.

For chain options, stay near Watertown, where you'll find a Microtel, 8000 Virginia Smith Dr. (tel. 800/771-7171), and a Holiday Inn Express, 1290 Arsenal St. (tel. 877/270-6397). Farther north in Ogdensburg, there's a Quality Inn, 6765 State Hwy. 37 (tel. 877/424-6423).

Campgrounds

Fortunately, some very choice properties in this region are state parklands, making for fantastic campsites with great views. One of the best options is Long Point State Park, 7495 State Park Rd., Three Mile Bay (tel. 800/456-2267 or 315/649-5258), on a long narrow peninsula facing one of Lake Ontario's bays. With 87 campsites, only 16 of them are electric, assuring a relatively peaceful experience. Cedar Point State Park, 36661 Cedar Point State Park Dr., Clayton (tel. 315/654-2522), also offers some tent sites right on the water. Off by itself is Association Island RV Resort and Marina, 15530 Snowshoe Rd., Henderson (tel. 800/393-4189 or 315/955-6522), which juts out into Lake Ontario. The entire island is devoted to camping, but with 305 RV sites, along with cottages and a marina, you'll hardly be alone.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.