Wild China: Mount Kailash & Lake Manasarovar--Worshipped by the followers of no less than four religions -- Tibetan Buddhists, Bonpos, Hindus, and Jains -- Mount Kailash (Gangdise) draws pilgrims from the Tibetan world and beyond. For Tibetan Buddhists, it is Mount Meru, the center of the universe, and many aim to circumambulate the mountain 108 times, thus attaining Buddhahood in this lifetime. For Hindu pilgrims, who are allowed to cross the border at Purang (Pulan), it is the abode of Shiva, one of the three supreme gods. The beauty of the 6,714m (22,028-ft.) peak, jutting up from the surrounding arid plain, is astounding, and the sight of Lake Manasarovar under a full moon is enough to have even the most cynical visitor believing in supernatural possibilities.
The Saka Dawa Festival, the traditional pilgrimage holiday held from late May to early June, is the most spectacular time to visit, but access (even for prebooked tours) is often restricted during this festival. Regardless, try to time your visit to coincide with the full moon.
Most Western visitors reach Mount Kailash with a tour. This is the most reliable option. Short tours, from either Lhasa or Kathmandu, last 14 days. More extensive tours of the region run for 21 days. The cost of a 21-day trip from Lhasa costs ¥16,000 ($2,000) and can be split between four travelers. Check out the FIT branches at the Kirey Hotel (tel. 0891/632-3462) or the Snowlands Guesthouse (tel. 0891/632-3687) in Lhasa. Beyond Zhongba (Zhongba), the road is in poor shape. Inspect your vehicle before you leave. The trip is not feasible from November to mid-April.
Sleeper buses (2-3 days; ¥750-¥900/$94-$112) connect Lhasa, Lhatse, and Ali, though you take the chance of being turned back -- permits are required. Bus services are seasonal, and usually take the northern route (bei xian) to Ali, making it necessary to double back, as Aliis a 2-day drive northwest of Mount Kailash. Inquire at the Ali Banshichu in Lhasa (tel. 0891/681-1577), the Yuechuan Caiguan in Lhatse (tel. 0892/832-2929), or the Ali Bus Station (tel. 0897/282-1527).
Accommodations along the route are usually ¥30 ($3.75) per bed. Even basic amenities, such as hot showers, are usually unavailable. Dishes at restaurants tend to cost more than they would in Lhasa, so figure that you'll spend around ¥80 ($10) per day on food, unless you're okay with instant noodles. Hitching is difficult, as few drivers are willing to risk a large fine, and most travel to Ali via the bleak northern route.
The traditional gateway to the mountain is the village of Darchen (Dajin), which sits on the southern edge of the pilgrimage circuit, although you can't see the mountain from here. Admission to the Kailash area is ¥50 ($6), collected at a checkpoint at the entrance to town. Foreigners must register with the PSB in Darchen upon arrival. Accommodations range in price from ¥25 ($3) to ¥80 ($10) for a dorm bed, and popular places include the Yak Hotel and the Darchen Guesthouse. At the Gangdisi Binguan private standard rooms and triples with decent bathrooms go for ¥240 ($30) and ¥300 ($38) respectively. Some travelers have attempted to camp in the courtyard of some hotels, but they are often wake up covered with human feces and broken glass. The nearest bearable site to camp is a 1 1/2-hour walk on the kora at Darpoche (marked with a flagpole). Outside the eastern entrance of the Gangdisi Binguan is the Lhasa Restaurant, run by a charming retired teacher from Tsetang.
Most people take 3 days to complete the 53km (33-mile) circuit. Buddhists undertake the journey in a clockwise direction, while a handful of Bonpos walk counterclockwise. Stick with the majority. Do not count on finding accommodations in monasteries along the route -- bring a tent! Waterproof hiking boots are a must, as there are numerous small river crossings. Bring all the food you think you'll need, as you'll only find instant noodles and a few other snacks for sale on the circuit. Even if you intend to hire porters or yaks at ¥60 ($7.50) per day, you should be very fit, as the trek is above 4,500m (14,760 ft.), rising to over 5,600m (18,370 ft.) on the second day.
Hor Qu (Huo'er Qu), 39km (24 miles) southeast of Darchen, is the most common jumping-off point for Lake Manasarovar (4,560m/14,957 ft.). Here you can enjoy unparalleled views of the Himalayas across turquoise waters which freeze over in winter, visit monasteries carved from the naked rock of the lakeshore, and even attempt the 90km (56-mile) circuit of the lake. Chiu Gompa, 35km (22 miles) south of Darchen and 8km (5 miles) south of the main road, has a few unmarked guesthouses that will rent you a bed for ¥40 ($5). A wash in the bathhouse that has unlimited hot-springs water costs ¥20 ($2.50). Entrance to the Chiu Monastery is free, and its setting, on a crag facing Lake Manasarovar, is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the view. If you go to Chiu Gompa, bring food from Darchen or Hor Qu. The Indian Pilgrims Resthouse by the lakeshore, where you can spend the night for ¥100 ($13), serves a few minimal dishes like egg-fried rice.
