Side Trips

If you have a car, venture into Baja California for a long day trip or an overnight getaway. Beyond the border city of Tijuana are the seaside resort towns of Rosarito, just 18 miles south of Tijuana, and Ensenada, 42 miles farther south. About 10 miles south of Rosarito you'll find the former fishing hamlet of Puerto Nuevo, now a kind of lobster-meal Disneyland, with more than 30 restaurants -- all serving the same thing; northeast of Ensenada is the Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico's wine country. Discounts on lodging, dining, and shopping are available from both the Rosarito and Ensenada visitor bureaus; contact them at www.rosarito.org (tel. 800/962-2252) and www.enjoyensenada.com (tel. 800/310-9687 from the U.S., 800/025-3991, or 646/178-8578). Note: Most U.S. auto insurance policies don't cover drivers or their vehicles south of Tijuana. Mexican auto insurance is advised and avoid driving the highway at night when animals and other obstacles can't be seen. Also be aware that many businesses are cash only. You can visit Rosarito, Ensenada, and the wine country on a tour, as well.

Two well-maintained roads link Tijuana and Puerto Nuevo: the scenic, coast-hugging toll road (marked cuota or 1-D; $3 at each of the three tollbooths between Tijuana and Ensenada) and the free but slower public road (marked libre or 1). Start out on the toll road, but cut over to the free road at the first Rosarito Beach exit so that you can stop and enjoy the view at a leisurely pace. This coastal area was once sparsely populated, but developers began exploiting the world-class ocean vistas here, and luxury condominiums -- mostly snapped up by Americans -- cropped up everywhere. The ensuing real estate bust has led to a string of unsightly, unfinished projects, the most notable of which was Donald Trump's Ocean Resort Baja that went bankrupt in 2009.

Once a tiny resort town that remained a secret despite its proximity to Tijuana, Rosarito developed explosively in the 1980s; it's now garish and congested beyond recognition. But it remains popular for a couple of reasons: 1) It's the first beach resort town south of the border, and 2) its reputation continues to lure visitors. For years, the Rosarito Beach Hotel (tel. 866/767-2748 from the U.S., or 800/265-2322, 661/612-1111; www.rosaritobeachhotel.com) was a hideaway for Hollywood celebrities, and it remains the most interesting place in town -- check out its expert tile and woodwork, as well as the lobby's panoramic murals. The original owner's mansion is now home to a spa and a decadent gourmet restaurant, Chabert's. Not to be missed is the amazingly tiled Salon Quijote, where you can escape for a quiet drink (the chandelier is rumored to have been a gift from gangster Al Capone). Sadly, the hotel fell victim to the post-millennial building craze, too, and unleashed a 17-story, 271-unit condo hotel that is monstrously out of proportion to its surroundings.

If you don't mind being a little outside of town, Las Rocas Resort & Spa, Km 38.5 (tel. 866/445-8909 from the U.S., 800/788-5648, or 661/614-9850; www.lasrocas.com), is a sweet spot with killer views -- minus the crowds. It sits under the watchful gaze of a 70-foot Jesus that was built on a hilltop on the other side of the highway.

Bulevar Benito Juárez is Rosarito's main drag. The southern end is anchored by the Rosarito Beach Hotel; this is where you'll find all things touristic, including the rustic shopping arcade Pueblo Plaza, home to one of the city's best restaurants, Susanna's (tel. 661/613-1187; www.susannasinrosarito.com). Also nearby is Bazar de las Artesanías, where you can get lost among the stalls of souvenirs, clothing, and gewgaws. The best shopping, though, is south of town along the free road, where there are several quality art galleries, as well as sellers of ceramics, wood furniture, and wrought-iron goods.

The big draws for young people are the enormous, thumping, beachfront clubs: Papas & Beer (tel. 661/612-0444; www.rosarito.papasandbeer.com), which also has a branch in Ensenada, and Iggy's (tel. 661/612-0537). For dining, best bets include the very fun El Nido, Blvd. Benito Juárez 67 (tel. 661/612-1430; www.elnidorosarito.net), and the French Bistro le Cousteau, Blvd. Benito Juárez 184 (tel. 661/612-2655); for a quick taco, head east off Benito Juárez on Calle de la Palma to Tacos el Yaqui (tel. 664/158-0537). A few minutes' drive south of town is the Hotel Calafia, Km 35.5 (tel. 661/614-9815 or 619/739-4343 from the U.S.; www.hotel-calafia.com). You can dine alfresco on tiered tables that overlook the ocean, but the surroundings outshine the food. There's also a chic wine bar, a small exhibit on Baja history, and a scale replica of a Spanish galleon for kids to clamber on.

From Rosarito, drive south and stop at Puerto Nuevo, a tiny, portless fishing village with more than 30 restaurants -- all serving lobster in the local style: halved, grilled, and slathered in butter. Around 1952, the wives of fishermen started serving local lobsters from the kitchens of their simple shacks; many eventually built small dining rooms onto their homes or constructed restaurants. The result is a crustacean lover's paradise, where a feast of lobster, beans, rice, salsa, limes, and fresh tortillas costs $15 to $25. Ortega's is probably the oldest restaurant and has expanded to five locations in the village, including Villa Ortega's (tel. 661/614-0706 or 619/632-4875 from the U.S.; www.puertonuevo-villaortega.com), the most upscale spot in town. Puerto Nuevo regulars prefer the smaller, family-run joints, though, such as Sandra's (tel. 661/614-1051), Puerto Nuevo Numero Uno and Dos (tel. 661/614-1411 and 1454), and La Casa de la Langosta (tel. 661/614-1072), which also has an outpost in Rosarito. Alas, overfishing means there's now a lobster season, so if you come April through September you'll probably be eating imported crustaceans. The fishing town of Popotla also serves lobster dinners, in somewhat less commercial trappings; it's located just past the Xploration movie studio (once a tourist attraction, now closed to the public) and through the concrete arch. Note: Many small restaurants are closed Tuesdays.

About 10 miles farther south, roughly halfway between Rosarito and Ensenada at Km 59.5, is La Fonda, a beloved hotel, restaurant, and spa (tel. 646/155-0308; www.lafondabaja.com). The Sunday brunch is an orgy of food, everything from "paella to pancakes," washed down with free-flowing Bloody Marys. You can sit under thatched umbrellas on the tiled terrace overlooking the breaking surf; there's also a bar and easy access to the sandy beach below.

Continue your journey for several more miles to Ensenada -- the drive is flat-out breathtaking. This port city of 150,000 offers good shopping, a friendly atmosphere, and some of the best fishing around (but no beaches). Deep-sea charters take visitors out on cruises for a chance to catch albacore, barracuda, and bonito. Ensenada also purports to be the birthplace of the fish taco.

The tourist area is compact and walkable; nearby is the harborside malecón (sea wall boardwalk), where you can rent fishing or sightseeing boats and grab a fish taco at the open-air fish market. You can put silver jewelry, leather goods, textiles, and folk art on your shopping list, too. The most interesting cultural attraction is the lovely Riviera del Pacifico, Blvd. Costero at Av. Riviera (tel. 646/176-4233), a former gambling palace that's been converted into a cultural center and museum with beautiful gardens.

When you're ready to take a break from touring, stop by Bodegas de Santo Tomás, Av. Miramar 666 (tel. 646/174-0829; www.santo-tomas.com), a historic winery open for tours and tastings. If you're in the mood for a beer -- and even if you aren't -- pay a visit to legendary Hussong's Cantina, Av. Ruiz 113 (tel. 646/178-3210; www.cantinahussongs.com), which opened for business in 1892, making it one of the oldest bars in the Californias. For the nicest meal in town, El Rey Sol, Av. López Mateos 1000 (tel. 646/178-1733; www.elreysol.com), has few competitors.

True to its name, Hotel Misión Santa Isabel, Blvd. Costero 1119 (tel. 646/178-3616), is an attractive, mission-style lodging at the southern end of the tourist zone. It's affordably priced and within walking distance of all the action, but far away enough to be peaceful. Las Rosas Hotel & Spa, Km 105.5 (tel. 866/447-6727 or 646/174-4310; www.lasrosas.com), offers more luxury, and has an enviable setting on the edge of Ensenada's huge Todos Santos bay. The only drawback is that it's 2 miles north of town.

About 20 miles south of Ensenada is La Bufadora. This ocean blowhole sprays a torrent of water high into the air with amazing force, often showering giggling onlookers who watch from observation decks. There are also numerous curio stands, restaurants, and bars here; you can get a taste of rural Mexico, too, as you drive along the highway, where roadside vendors sell nuts, tamales, and olives. To the northeast of Ensenada is the Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico's most important wine region, where some 20 wineries are making waves in the oenological world; tours and tastes are offered (see www.wineriesinbaja.com for more information). The valley is also the site of one of the finest restaurants on either side of the border, Laja (reservations required; tel. 646/155-2556; www.lajamexico.com). It's located at Km 83 along the Tecate-Ensenada highway.