Restaurants

Although the irresistible aroma of street food -- carne asada (marinated beef grilled over charcoal) tucked into corn tortillas, for starters -- is everywhere, less well known is that Tijuana has restaurants of real quality, despite the presence of touristy joints that lure many of the visitors. The following places are worth the taxi trip. The main meal of the day is la comida (lunch); restaurants are busiest around 2:30pm.

Note: Do not drink water unless it comes straight from a bottle (this includes ice, or uncooked vegetables, including lettuce, that have been washed), or you might leave Tijuana with a going-away gift; restaurants listed here generally have sanitary conditions, but it doesn't hurt to be cautious.

For breakfast (or lunch or dinner, for that matter), a local favorite not far from the Grand Hotel is El Potrero, Blvd. Salinas 4700 (tel. 664/686-3626). Like Hollywood's old Brown Derby, this restaurant is shaped like a giant hat -- a sombrero, to be exact. The interior is filled with cowboy memorabilia from the owner's days as a charro (horseman).

Tijuana is also home to outstanding restaurants representing international cuisines -- just because you're in Mexico, doesn't mean you have to eat Mexican. There's award-winning Argentine food at Cheripan, Escuadrón 201 No. 3151 (tel. 664/622-9730; www.cheripan.com); excellent Mediterranean-Baja fusion at Villa Saverios, Blvd. Sánchez Taboada at Escuadrón 201 (tel. 664/686-6442; www.villasaverios.com); sushi at Negai, Escuadrón 201 No. 3110-3 (tel. 664/971-0000); and the flavors of Spain at Chiki Jai, Av. Revolución 1388 (tel. 664/685-4955). Except for Chiki Jai, the preceding eateries are all in the Zona Río's dining district.

For something really unusual, stop by Tepoznieves, Blvd. Sánchez Taboada 10737, Zona Río (tel. 664/634-6532), an ice-cream parlor that serves a dizzying array of flavors it dubs the "ice cream of the gods." The treats here include wine- and spirits-infused sorbets (tequila, white wine, gin); poetically named concoctions such as mil flores, or "thousand flowers" (cream, almonds, and herbal tea); and traditional ice creams made with everything from rose petals to prunes. This gourmet spot will have you coming back for more, and yes, they do have chocolate, too.