During the Festival Fundador (Oct 10-14), which celebrates the founding of the town in 1723, streets around the main plaza fill with food, games, and wandering troubadours. Many of the shops and the Café Santa Fe close from the end of September through the festival. The Arts Festival, held in February, seems to be gaining importance, with film festivals, dance and music performances, and more.
Todos Santos is a good stopover for those traveling between Cabo and La Paz; a day's visit can be arranged through tour companies in Los Cabos or done on your own with a rental car. Todos Santos has at least a dozen galleries, including the noted Galería de Todos Santos, corner of Topete and Legaspi (tel. 612/145-0500), which features a changing collection of works by regional artists. It's open daily from 11am to 4pm (closed Sun May-Nov) and doesn't accept credit cards. The new La Galera, on Obregón (tel. 612/145-0215), houses a striking collection of local and regional Mexican artists, plus some handcrafts and jewelry from mainland Mexico. Keep an eye out for the brooding paintings of local Sebastián Díaz Duarte, La Galera's featured artist. It's open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm.
El Tecolote Libros (tel. 612/145-0295), though tiny, gets our vote for the best bookstore in Mexico. It carries an exceptional selection of Latin American literature, poetry, children's books, and reference books centering on Mexico. Both English and Spanish editions, new and used, are in stock, along with maps, magazines, cards, used VHS tapes and books, and art supplies. Information on upcoming writing workshops and local reading groups also is posted here. The shop is at the corner of Hidalgo and Juárez. It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm, and Sunday from 10am to 3pm.