Both the Todra Palmeraie and Todra Gorge are equally scenic and fascinating, and I recommend you explore both by foot. Access paths down into the palmeraie are dotted along the course of the 15km (9 1/3 miles) road that runs from Tinerhir. The gorge is also very popular with rock climbers.
English-speaking El Houssaïne ("call me Hassan") Abdel Fadel (tel. 070/223076, or ask at Hotel Yasmina) is from the Aït Ousal clan that have lived in the palmeraie for centuries. Joining him for even half a day will leave you with a greater knowledge of the botany and geology of the Todra and deeper affection for the people who live here. Full-day walks along the palmeraie floor or up the gorge, including lunch with his family (palmeraie) or local shepherds in a cave (gorge), cost 100dh ($13/£6.25) per person. Full-day mule treks, mountain biking, and rock climbing (with equipment) can also be organized.