Active Pursuits

Toronto residents love the great outdoors, whatever the time of year. In summer, you'll see people cycling, boating, and hiking; in winter, they are skating, skiing, and snowboarding.

For additional information on facilities in the parks, golf courses, tennis courts, swimming pools, beaches, and picnic areas, call Toronto Parks and Recreation (tel. 416/392-8186; www.toronto.ca/parks).

Beaches

The Beaches is the neighborhood along Queen Street East from Coxwell Avenue to Victoria Park. It has a charming boardwalk that connects the beaches, starting at Ashbridge's Bay Park, which has a sizable marina. Woodbine Beach connects to Kew Gardens Park and is a favorite with sunbathers and volleyball players. Woodbine also boasts the Donald D. Summerville Olympic Pool. Snack bars and trinket sellers line the length of the boardwalk.

Personally, I prefer the beaches on the Toronto Islands. The ones on Centre Island, always the busiest, are favorites with families because of such nearby attractions as Centreville. The beaches on Wards Island are much more secluded. They're connected by the loveliest boardwalk in the city, with masses of fragrant flowers and raspberry bushes along its edges. Hanlan's Point, also in the Islands, is Toronto's only nude beach (I have to confess, I haven't worked up the nerve to sunbathe there . . .).

Don't Drink the Water! -- Situated on Lake Ontario, Toronto boasts several beaches where you can lap up the sun. Just don't lap up the polluted H2O, even though you'll see many Torontonians doing just that as they swim through the murky waters. Lake Ontario has high counts of Escherichia coli, a very nasty bacteria that can cause ear, nose, and throat infections; skin rashes; and diarrhea -- not exactly the kind of souvenir you were looking for. Families will probably want to keep kids out of the water altogether.

Canoeing & Kayaking

The Harbourfront Canoe and Kayak School, 283A Queens Quay W. (tel. 800/960-8886 or 416/203-2277; www.paddletoronto.com), rents canoes and kayaks; call ahead if you are interested in taking private instruction.

You can also rent canoes, rowboats, and pedal boats on the Toronto Islands just south of Centreville.

Cross-Country Skiing

Just about every park in Toronto becomes potential cross-country skiing territory as soon as snow falls. Best bets are Sunnybrook Park and Ross Lord Park, both in North York. For more information, call Toronto Parks and Recreation (tel. 416/392-8186; www.toronto.ca/parks). Serious skiers interested in day trips to excellent out-of-town sites like Horseshoe Valley can call Trakkers Cross Country Ski Club (tel. 416/763-0173; www.trakkers.ca), which also rents equipment.

Cycling

With biking trails through most of the city's parks and more than 29km (18 miles) of street bike routes, it's not surprising that Toronto has been called one of the best cycling cities in North America. Favorite pathways include the Martin Goodman Trail (from The Beaches to the Humber River along the waterfront); the Lower Don Valley bike trail (from the east end of the city north to Riverdale Park); High Park (with winding trails over 160 hectares/395 acres); and the Toronto Islands, where bikers ride without fear of cars. For advice, call the Ontario Cycling Association (tel. 416/426-7416) or Toronto Parks and Recreation (tel. 416/392-8186; www.toronto.ca/parks).

Bike lanes are marked on College/Carlton streets, the Bloor Street Viaduct leading to the Danforth, Beverly/St. George streets, and Davenport Road. The Convention and Visitors Association can supply more detailed information.

For a list of bike rental shops, contact the Toronto Bicycling Network (tel. 416/766-1985; www.tbn.ca). One sure bet is Wheel Excitement, 249 Queens Quay W., Unit 110 (tel. 416/260-9000; www.wheelexcitement.ca). If you're interested in cycling with a group or want information about daily excursions and weekend trips, call the Toronto Bicycling Network.

Walk/Jog/Cycle in Peace -- One of the best places to walk, jog, or cycle in the city is Mount Pleasant Cemetery. No, I'm not joking! The wide paths of the cemetery are like roads, with lots of space for everyone, from athletic types to parents pushing strollers. Locals love this parklike space, which abounds with trees and statuary, not just tombstones. It's a lively scene and anything but depressing.

Spas & the City

Maybe you have a kink in your neck you just can't work out. Maybe you've got a nasty case of jet lag that won't quit. Or perhaps you're just in the mood for some pampering. In Toronto, you won't have to look too far: This city is spa heaven, as far as I'm concerned. The standards are top-notch, the treatments range from the tried and true to the innovative, and the prices tend to be quite reasonable. All of the spas listed here cater to both women and men.

HealthWinds -- This is as serene a setting as you'll find anywhere in the city. Standards are extremely high -- owner Kailee Kline is a past president of the Spas Ontario association and is its current director of education. Some of the best treatments at HealthWinds take place in the bath -- or, more specifically, a hydrotherapy bath with 120 water and air jets, all the better to soothe your aches and pains. While I'm a spa junkie, I've encountered some brilliant techniques at HealthWinds that I haven't encountered elsewhere, such as using hot paraffin on the back to soften up muscles before a massage. 650 Mount Pleasant Rd. (entrance is on Manor Rd.). tel. 416/488-9545. www.healthwindsspas.com. Subway: Eglinton, then bus 34 east to Mt. Pleasant, and walk 3 blocks south to Manor Rd.

Holt Renfrew Spa -- Located in one of Toronto's most luxurious stores is, appropriately enough, one of the city's most luxurious spas. Decorated in modern-chic blond wood and glass (and with a seemingly endless number of private treatment rooms), the spa provides a full range of services, from manicures to massage. One of the most interesting treatments is the Jet Lag Facial, which rehydrates the skin; during the facial, "lymphatic leg therapy" reduces puffiness and swelling (the new Uplifting Facial has similar results). My personal favorite is the 90-minute Hot Lava Rock Body Massage, which will leave you soothed and happy after a 90-minute deep-tissue massage. Just say aaaaaahhh . . . that really hit the spot. Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W. tel. 416/960-2909. www.holtrenfrew.com. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.

Stillwater Spa -- Water is the theme here, and it undulates in streams under transparent floor panels and courses down walls in miniwaterfalls. Before you even get to the treatment rooms, you'll be dazzled by the changing areas, which include the expected whirlpool and sauna, but also have private cabana-like nooks where you can recline while watching TV with a headset (come in for a spa treatment, and you can spend all day here -- seriously). Venture into the main lounge area, and you'll find an aquarium, a fireplace, and a generous supply of biscotti. Many of the treatments are hydrocentric, too, like the delicious-smelling Mandarin Honey Body Glow, which uses a Vichy shower (you lie on the table while warm water cascades over you). My favorite spot is the romantic Couples Sanctuary, which has a whirlpool tub, a fireplace, and two massage tables. Park Hyatt Toronto, 4 Avenue Rd. tel. 416/924-5471. www.stillwaterspa.com. Subway: Bay or Museum.

Victoria Spa -- I'm a longtime massage fan, and one of the best I've ever had was at the Victoria Spa, which is located on the third floor of the InterContinental Hotel. Decorated in an elaborate style that veers from the classical to the baroque, this spa is wrapped around an indoor pool and lounge. The woman behind the spa is Victoria Sutherland, and you'll find her daily at her pride and joy. The Victoria Spa is famous for its luxurious pedicures, which involve a hot-milk or herbal foot bath, salt scrub, and massage -- but in my opinion, all of the treatments, from facials to body therapies, meet the same standard of excellence. The Rose Massage is a sensual treat: Smell the fragrance of roses in the air, lie down on a (massage) bed of velvety rose petals, and get massaged with rose-infused oil. By the time you stroll out it's impossible to look at the world without rose-colored glasses. InterContinental Hotel, 225 Front St. W. tel. 416/413-9100. www.victoriaspa.com. Subway: St. Andrew or Union.

Fitness Centers

The Metro Central YMCA, 20 Grosvenor St. (tel. 416/975-9622; www.ymcatoronto.org), has excellent facilities, including a 25m (82-ft.) swimming pool, all kinds of cardiovascular machines, Nautilus equipment, an indoor track, squash and racquetball courts, and aerobics classes. The University of Toronto Athletic Centre, 55 Harbord St., at Spadina Avenue (tel. 416/978-3436; www.ac-fpeh.com), offers similar facilities.

For yoga aficionados, there's no better place to stretch than Yoga Plus, 40 Eglinton Ave. E., 8th Floor (tel. 416/322-9936; www.yogastudio.net). A single class costs C$20 (£10); there's also a pay-what-you-can "Karma" class available. For a listing of all of Toronto's yoga studios, visit www.yogatoronto.ca, which covers the city and the Greater Toronto Area.

Golf

Toronto is obsessed with golf, as evidenced by its more than 75 public courses within an hour's drive of downtown. Here's information on some of the best.

• Don Valley, 4200 Yonge St., south of Highway 401 (tel. 416/392-2465). Designed by Howard Watson, this is a scenic par-71 course with some challenging elevated tees. The par-3 13th hole is nicknamed the Hallelujah Corner (it takes a miracle to make par). It's considered a good place to start your kids.
• Humber Valley, 40 Beattie Ave. at Albion Road (tel. 416/392-2488). The relatively flat par-70 course is easy to walk, with lots of shade from towering trees. The three final holes require major concentration (the 16th and 17th are par 5s).
• The Glen Abbey Golf Club, 1333 Dorval Dr., Oakville (tel. 905/844-1800; www.glenabbey.com). The championship course is one of the most famous in Canada. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the par-73 layout traditionally plays host to the Canadian Open.

Travelers who are really into golf might want to consider a side trip to Muskoka. This area, just 90 minutes north, has some of the best golfing in the country at courses such as Taboo and the Deerhurst Highlands.

Ice Skating & In-Line Skating

Nathan Phillips Square in front of city hall becomes a free ice rink in winter, as does an area at Harbourfront Centre. Rentals are available on-site. More than 25 parks contain artificial rinks (also free), including Grenadier Pond in High Park -- a romantic spot, with a bonfire and vendors selling roasted chestnuts. They're open from November to March.

In summer, in-line skaters pack Toronto's streets (and sidewalks). Go with the flow and rent some blades from Wheel Excitement.

Skate till You Drop? -- Let's say you'd like to go skating while your traveling companion wants to hit the shops. If you head to Hazelton Lanes, you can both get what you want. A central courtyard doubles as a skating rink. Better yet, the shopping center's Customer Service Centre (tel. 416/968-8600) offers complimentary skate rentals. It's hard to beat a deal like that.

Jogging

Downtown routes might include Harbourfront and along the lakefront, or through Queen's Park and the University. The Martin Goodman Trail runs 20km (12 miles) along the waterfront from The Beaches in the east to the Humber River in the west. It's ideal for jogging, walking, or cycling. It links to the Tommy Thompson Trail, which travels the parks from the lakefront along the Humber River. Near the Ontario Science Centre in the Central Don Valley, Ernest Thompson Seton Park is also good for jogging. Parking is available at the Thorncliffe Drive and Wilket Creek entrances.

These areas are generally quite safe, but you should take the same precautions you would in any large city.

Rock Climbing

Toronto has several climbing gyms, including Joe Rockhead's, 29 Fraser Ave. (tel. 416/538-7670; www.joerockheads.com), and the Toronto Climbing Academy, 100 Broadview Ave. (tel. 416/406-5900; www.climbingacademy.com). You can pick up the finer points of knot tying and belaying. Both gyms also rent equipment.

Snowboarding & Skiing

The snowboard craze shows no sign of abating, at least from January to March (or anytime there's enough snow on the ground). One popular site is the Earl Bales Park, 4169 Bathurst Street (just south of Sheppard Ave.), which offers rentals. The park also has an alpine ski center, which offers both equipment rentals and coaching. Call (tel. 416/395-7931) for more information.

Swimming

The municipal parks, including High and Rosedale parks, offer a dozen or so outdoor pools (open June-Sept). Several community recreation centers have indoor pools. For pool information, call tel. 416/338-7665.

Visitors may buy a day pass to use the pools at the YMCA, 20 Grosvenor St. (tel. 416/975-9622), and the University of Toronto Athletic Centre, 55 Harbord St. at Spadina Avenue (tel. 416/978-4680).

Tennis

There are 200 municipal parks across Toronto with tennis facilities. The most convenient are the courts in High, Rosedale, and Jonathan Ashridge parks. They are open from April to October only. Call Toronto Parks (tel. 416/392-1111) for information. The Toronto Parks website also has a brochure you can download; visit www.toronto.ca/parks.