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Restaurants

Dining out is nothing short of a passion in Toronto. It's not that residents are too lazy to cook, but we are spoiled by the embarrassment of edible riches in all parts of the city. The city is a restaurant-goer's nirvana for a wealth of reasons. For starters, there are more than 7,000 places to choose from. They represent cooking styles from any country or nationality you can name, making Toronto's culinary scene both eclectic and palate-teasing. Eating out is also remarkably affordable: While the most expensive restaurants have broken the C$50-an-entree mark, there are many, many reasonably priced options that offer inventive cooking and attentive service. (Keep in mind, too, that for many international visitors, even the most expensive Toronto restaurants aren't so pricey given the Canadian dollar's value compared to the pound or the euro.)

Mediterranean and Asian cuisines dominate the scene -- and often appear on the same plate. Fusion cooking caught on big here and has never lost its steam. Many restaurants that started out as, say, Italian have incorporated ingredients and cooking styles from Southeast Asia and North Africa, among other regions. Each wave of immigration has carried new ideas and flavors.

While restaurants of all descriptions are found across the city, certain neighborhoods are renowned for their specialties: Little Italy for its trattorias, Chinatown for its Chinese and Vietnamese eateries, and the Danforth for its Greek tavernas. King Street West has unexpectedly become a magnet for gourmets in the past couple of years, offering a bevy of bistros and boîtes.

Dining Notes -- Dining out does not have to be an expensive venture, but the tax level is high. Meals are subject to the 8% provincial sales tax and to the 6% GST (which was reduced from 7% in July 2006). In other words, tax and tip together can add 30% to your bill. Restaurants normally leave tipping to the diner's discretion unless there are six or more people at the table. The usual amount for good service is 15%, jumping to 20% at the pricier establishments. The price of a bottle of wine is generally quite high because of the tax on imports; get around it by ordering an Ontario vintage -- local wines enjoy a rising international reputation. Remember that there is a 10% tax on alcohol. Keep in mind that many restaurants change their menus and policies at a moment's notice. If a listing says a restaurant doesn't accept reservations, but you have your heart set on eating there, it doesn't hurt to call and ask if a reservation (or an exception) could be made.

Allergy Awareness

Dining out when you have a food allergy or intolerance can be a risky proposition, and that's doubly true when you're traveling. But many Toronto restaurants (and some shops) are becoming increasingly aware of the issue and are able to make accommodations. Here are some spots to check out.

  • Big Mamma's Boy: You don't need to ask if this restaurant is safe for the gluten-intolerant: A huge sign hangs at the front advertising its gluten-free menu, which includes pizzas, pastas, and traditional comfort-food dishes.

  • Camros Organic Eatery: This takeout spot at Yonge and Bloor offers vegetarian Persian-inspired cooking. The lentil-rich dishes are gluten-free, and the restaurant lists all ingredients in every dish.

  • Il Fornello: People with wheat allergy or celiac disease don't usually hang out at pasta restaurants, but this one is the exception. Il Fornello's alternative menu -- available at all of its Toronto locations -- offers rice pasta and gluten-free pizza crusts.

  • Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and Restaurant: The staff is impressively informed about food allergies and very helpful. All of the dishes are made from scratch, so the staff knows all of the ingredients, but they are also aware of the possibility of cross-contamination and can advise you about potential issues.

  • Perigee: The nicest thing about having a menu custom-made for you is that it means any food sensitivities you have can be easily catered to. The staff is well versed in food allergies, so say the word and dine comfortably.

  • Susur: This is one of the most luxurious kitchens in Toronto -- and one of the most accommodating. Just tell the well-informed staff your restrictions and rest easy. The tasting menus can be fine-tuned to eliminate dairy, soy, wheat, seafood, and other allergens.

  • Swiss Chalet: Who says that fast food can't be healthy? This allergy-aware Canadian chain can provide complete nutritional information as well as precise details about allergens from peanuts to sulfites. 362 Yonge St. at Gerrard. tel. 416/597-0101. www.swisschalet.com.

  • Whole Foods: Located in Yorkville's Hazelton Lanes, this upscale grocery store is the place to shop if you suffer from a food allergy. Clear labeling and a wide range of allergen-free options make for a nice change. In Hazelton Lanes, 87 Avenue Rd. tel. 416/944-0500. www.wholefoodsmarket.com.

    Tip: A Note on Smoking

    A provincial law came into effect in June 2006 that made it all but impossible to smoke at Ontario restaurants: no more indoor smoking at restaurants (even in separately ventilated dining rooms), and patios that have any sort of covering have also had to go smoke-free. This has made for a great deal of confusion, since tableside umbrellas that are close-set apparently count as covering, according to the law. You can still smoke on uncovered patios -- for now.

    Ontario Wine with Dinner

    Ontario vintners' greatest successes so far have been with white wines. Delicious, crisp, and complex, they're impossible to resist, whether we're talking about Riesling, Gewürztraminer, pinot gris, or chardonnay. You don't have to take my word for it: These wines are taking home gold medals at international competitions. The red wines aren't as consistent. There are some terrific cabernet sauvignons, pinot noirs, and cabernet francs from Ontario, but I have yet to encounter a local merlot I've liked.

    The coup de grace comes at dessert time, when you can try an Ontario icewine. Before you appreciate the final product, take a moment to consider what it takes to create it. It's a long shot that would test any gambler's nerves: Grapes are left on the vine through December and most or all of January, and then the ripe berries that weren't lost to hungry birds or wind damage are dehydrated by the one-two punch of freezing and thawing. The process concentrates the sugars and acids, giving icewine its great complexity. But the grapes can't be harvested until temperatures hit at least 17°F (-8°C) -- which means they must be harvested in the middle of the night. Still, such risk can pay off in huge rewards, as it did for Inniskillin in 1991, when the Ontario winery won the Grand Prix d'Honneur for its 1989 Vidal icewine. Since then, other vintners -- such as Hillebrand, Pillitteri, Magnotta, and Stoney Ridge -- have produced award-winning icewines. To learn more about Ontario wine before your visit, check out the Ontario Wine Council at www.winesofontario.org.

    Great Greasy Spoons

    While Toronto's top-notch dining spots can be enchanting, I just can't resist the lure of the greasy spoon. You know the kind of place I mean: fluorescent lighting, a bottle of ketchup on every Formica tabletop, vinyl-upholstered booths, and aromas of strong coffee and frying bacon. Some suggestions:

    Perhaps Toronto's best-known greasy spoon is Mars, 432 College St. at Bathurst Street (tel. 416/921-6332); it sports a neon sign that claims the diner is "Just out of this world." In addition to the all-day breakfast menu, it boasts cheese blintzes, grilled burgers, and a great turkey club. Another location at 2363 Yonge St., just north of Eglinton Avenue (tel. 416/322-7111), has kitschy mock-diner decor that doesn't hold a candle to the real McCoy.

    Avenue Diner, 222 Davenport Rd. at Avenue Road (tel. 416/924-5191), is just up the street from the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons hotels, which explains the frequent celebrity sightings (signed and framed photos stand as a permanent record of stars' visits). In business since 1946, the Avenue serves a steady supply of omelets, French toast, and hamburgers.

    The first Sunset Grill opened in Toronto in 1985, and outposts have recently started popping up around the city. For three-egg omelets, pancakes, and bottomless cups of coffee, check out its central downtown location at 1 Richmond St. W. (tel. 416/861-0514).

    The Goof, 2379 Queen St. E. (tel. 416/694-3605), is officially named the Garden Gate Restaurant. But certain letters burned out of the neon "Good Food" sign, giving this Beaches neighborhood mainstay its name. In addition to the usual diner grub, this spot has star power, as evidenced by Jennifer Lopez sightings.

    Finally, there's Fran's, which has locations at 20 College St. (tel. 416/923-9867) and at the Pantages Hotel (200 Victoria St.; tel. 416/304-0085). Fran's is something of a Toronto institution -- and it's the perfect place to have breakfast 24 hours a day.


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    Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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