Restaurants

Toronto's dining scene is as vibrant and multifaceted as the city itself. There is something for every palate here, in every price range. If you're craving the cuisine of a particular nation, you'll find it within the city's borders. Toronto's dining scene is a highlight for any visitor. This section details my favorite spots, and while there are some spectacular break-the-bank places listed (when traveling, you've got to splurge a little, right?), the focus is on affordable spots that serve unforgettable meals.

Dining Notes -- Dining out in Toronto does not have to be an expensive venture, but the tax level is high. Meals are subject to the 8% provincial sales tax and to the 5% GST. In other words, tax and tip together can add 28% or more to your bill. Restaurants normally leave tipping to the diner's discretion unless there are six or more people at the table. The usual amount for good service is 15%, jumping to 20% at the pricier establishments. The price of a bottle of wine is generally quite high because of the tax on imports; get around it by ordering an Ontario vintage -- local wines enjoy a rising international reputation. Remember that there is a 10% tax on alcohol. Keep in mind that many restaurants change their menus and policies at a moment's notice. If a listing says a restaurant doesn't accept reservations, but you have your heart set on eating there, it doesn't hurt to call and ask if a reservation (or an exception) could be made.

A Note on Smoking

A provincial law came into effect in June 2006 that made it all but impossible to smoke at Ontario restaurants: no more indoor smoking at restaurants (even in separately ventilated dining rooms), and patios that have any sort of covering have also had to go smoke-free. This has made for a great deal of confusion, since tableside umbrellas that are close-set apparently count as covering, according to the law. You can still smoke on uncovered patios -- for now.

Online Reservations

One of my favorite dining websites is OpenTable.com. While it doesn't have a long track record in Toronto, its reservation system is reliable and its restaurant roster is growing (at press time there are 69 eateries on the list). The good news is that the list includes gems such as Canoe, Cava, North 44, Vertical, and Perigee. But be careful when you're making a reservation, because the list also features restaurants in Ottawa (a 5-hr. drive from Toronto) and Windsor (a mere 4-hr. drive).

Allergy Awareness

Dining out when you have a food allergy or intolerance can be a risky proposition, and that's doubly true when you're traveling. But many Toronto restaurants (and some shops) are becoming increasingly aware of the issue and are able to make accommodations. Before you travel, check out websites such as Toronto Celiac (torontoceliac.blogspot.com) and Gluten-Free Guidebook (www.glutenfreeguidebook.com). Here are some spots to check out.

• Amuse-Bouche: Whether you dine a la carte or order the tasting menu, the staff is well versed in food allergies, so say the word and dine comfortably. They have been known to bake gluten-free bread when informed in advance that a gluten-intolerant diner will be eating there.
• Big Mamma's Boy: You don't need to ask if this restaurant is safe for the gluten-intolerant: A huge sign hangs at the front advertising its gluten-free menu, which includes pizzas, pastas, and traditional comfort-food dishes.
• Camros Organic Eatery: This takeout spot at Yonge and Bloor offers vegetarian Persian-inspired cooking. The lentil-rich dishes are gluten-free, and the restaurant lists all ingredients in every dish.
• Il Fornello: People with wheat allergy or celiac disease don't usually hang out at pasta restaurants, but this one is the exception. Il Fornello's alternative menu -- available at all of its Toronto locations -- offers rice pasta and gluten-free pizza crusts.
• Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar: The staff is impressively informed about food allergies and very helpful. All of the dishes are made from scratch, so the staff knows all of the ingredients, but they are also aware of the possibility of cross-contamination and can advise you about potential issues.
• Swiss Chalet: Who says that fast food can't be healthy? This allergy-aware Canadian chain can provide complete nutritional information as well as precise details about allergens from peanuts to sulfites. 362 Yonge St. at Gerrard. tel. 416/597-0101. www.swisschalet.com.
• Whole Foods: Located in Yorkville's Hazelton Lanes, this upscale grocery store is the place to shop if you suffer from a food allergy. Clear labeling and a wide range of allergen-free options make for a nice change. In Hazelton Lanes, 87 Avenue Rd. tel. 416/944-0500. www.wholefoodsmarket.com.

Great Greasy Spoons

While Toronto's top-notch dining spots can be enchanting, I just can't resist the lure of the greasy spoon. You know the kind of place I mean: fluorescent lighting, a bottle of ketchup on every Formica tabletop, vinyl-upholstered booths, and aromas of strong coffee and frying bacon. Some suggestions:

Perhaps Toronto's best-known greasy spoon is Mars, 432 College St. at Bathurst Street (tel. 416/921-6332); it sports a neon sign that claims the diner is "Just out of this world." In addition to the all-day breakfast menu, it boasts cheese blintzes, grilled burgers, and a great turkey club. Another location at 2363 Yonge St., just north of Eglinton Avenue (tel. 416/322-7111), has kitschy mock-diner decor that doesn't hold a candle to the real McCoy.

Avenue Diner, 222 Davenport Rd. at Avenue Road (tel. 416/924-5191), is just up the street from the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons hotels, which explains the frequent celebrity sightings (signed and framed photos stand as a permanent record of stars' visits). In business since 1946, the Avenue serves a steady supply of omelets, French toast, and hamburgers.

The first Sunset Grill opened in Toronto in 1985, and outposts have recently started popping up around the city. For three-egg omelets, pancakes, and bottomless cups of coffee, check out its central downtown location at 1 Richmond St. W. (tel. 416/861-0514).

The Goof, 2379 Queen St. E. (tel. 416/694-3605), is officially named the Garden Gate Restaurant. But certain letters burned out of the neon "Good Food" sign, giving this Beaches neighborhood mainstay its name. In addition to the usual diner grub, this spot has star power, as evidenced by Jennifer Lopez sightings.

Finally, there's Fran's, which has locations at 20 College St. (tel. 416/923-9867) and at the Pantages Hotel (200 Victoria St.; tel. 416/304-0085). Fran's is something of a Toronto institution -- and it's the perfect place to have breakfast 24 hours a day.