Walking Tour 4

Cabbagetown

Start: Allan Gardens.

Finish: Sumach and Gerrard (for streetcar to College Station).

Time: 2 to 3 hours.

Best Time: Tuesdays from May through October, when the Farmers' Market is open in Riverdale Park West.

Worst Time: There is no worst time; all of the other attractions on this tour can be seen on weekdays and weekends.

Cabbagetown has experienced more of the vicissitudes of fate than any other neighborhood in Toronto. Built up in the 1840s by Irish immigrants fleeing the Great Famine, the name of the district comes from the cabbage plants they grew in their front yards. It has been both a wealthy enclave and a slum, but today, the residential streets have been gentrified, and the surrounding commercial streets are on an upswing.

Begin at:

1. Allan Gardens

This was Toronto's first civic park. For many years it ran to the seedy side, but since the University of Toronto took over the care of the greenhouses in 2004, it has become a charming place to visit again. The Children's Conservatory is well worth a look, but the crown jewel of the garden is the Edwardian Palm House.

At the corner of Carlton and Sherbourne, you'll see:

2. St. Luke's United Church

Known as Sherbourne Street Methodist when the first sermon was preached here in 1887, this is one of Toronto's most beautiful examples of religious architecture. From the outside, the imposing stonework and turrets make it look like a castle. Inside, the sanctuary has been completely refurbished in the past few years. The glorious stained-glass windows are the pièce de résistance (the church once had a wealthy congregation, and you'll see that the windows were all "dedicated" by businessmen trying to outdo one another).

On the north side of Carlton Street is:

3. St. Peter's Anglican Church

This parish was originally based in a cemetery chapel. In 1866, John Strachan, the Aberdeen-born Bishop of Toronto, opened this church. It's a pretty example of High Victorian Gothic, and later additions are in keeping with its original style.

Walk east along Carlton to:

4. Daniel et Daniel

This food shop at no. 248 Carlton St. is widely considered one of the best in Toronto. You'll find freshly baked pastries and equally tempting cheeses, pâtés, tarts, cakes, and other treats. My favorite thing is the selection of chocolates (sigh). Resistance is futile.

You're now at the intersection with:

5. Parliament Street

Parliament Street got its name because the first Upper Canada government buildings in "muddy little York" (as Toronto was then known) were built at its southern end in 1793. Today, it's the main commercial artery of Cabbagetown. This isn't exactly trendy (at press time, Starbucks had yet to set up an outpost on this stretch), but you can make some great finds. At no. 480 is a branch of Planet Aid, the secondhand-clothing store that raises money for projects in the developing world. Sharon's, at no. 503, is a small but glamorous boutique with clothing and accessories. Green's Antiques, at no. 529, is a true gem, with plenty of great chairs, ottomans, and sofas, many of which have been newly upholstered by the talented staff.

Take A Break

One reliable place to grab a bite is The Pear Tree, 507 Parliament St. (tel. 416/962-8190), which serves hearty salads like the Salmon Caesar or (my pick) the goat cheese and spinach. Another great spot is Jet Fuel, 519 Parliament St. (tel. 416/968-9982), a coffee shop that has become a local landmark (bike couriers love this place). Everything here is made with espresso, so be prepared for a caffeine hit.

Turn right at Winchester Street (at the corner, you'll pass the Laurentian Room), and walk east. At the northeast corner of the intersection of Winchester and Metcalfe, you'll see:

6. Toronto Dance Theatre

The former St. Enoch's Presbyterian Church was built in 1891 in a Romanesque Revival style. Oddly, the red-brick exterior makes the building (almost) blend in with the rest of the neighborhood (quite a feat, given its size).

Continue east to:

7. 94 Winchester Ave.

This was once the home of magician Doug Henning. You can't go inside (it's someone else's home now), but a plaque at the front commemorates his life (1947-2000) and immortalizes him as "magician, teacher, politician." The first two are easy to get, but the last requires some explanation. In 1994, Henning stood for election to Parliament as a member of the Natural Law Party, an organization memorable mainly for its belief in levitation.

Continue walking east on Winchester and turn south onto:

8. Sackville Street

This quiet street had some of the loveliest homes in Cabbagetown. While the architecture is an eclectic mix, you'll mostly see variations on Victorian and Queen Anne styles. Walk down to Sackville Place (the street will be only on your left side). Across from it is Pine Terrace, a series of Victorian red-brick town houses built in 1886.

Walk north back to Winchester, and follow it east to Sumach Street, where you'll find:

9. Riverdale Park West

This is a lovely park that's a favorite with local families. While you stop to enjoy the scenery, you can learn more about Cabbagetown's history. Look for the large maps and plaques in the park's northwestern corner, and you can learn all about many of the fascinating people who once called the neighborhood theirs. (Hint: Doug Henning fit in very well.) Depending on when you visit, you may find a farmers' market operating in the park, too.

Across from the park, on the north side of Winchester, is the:

10. Necropolis

Walk under the Gothic-inspired porte cochere to enter Toronto's city of the dead. This is the prettiest cemetery you could hope to find, and if you stop at the office (on the right side as you step under the archway), you can pick up a free map that will guide you to the final resting places of some of Toronto's famous inhabitants. Check out the imposing stone Celtic cross that marks the grave of William Lyon Mackenzie, the leader of the Upper Canada rebellion who later became the mayor of Toronto.

When you finish here, exit through the porte cochere; on your right is the:

11. Necropolis Chapel

This small chapel is a stunning example of High Victorian Gothic style. Architect Henry Langley built it in 1872 (he's the same person who designed the eye-catching towers at St. James' Cathedral and St. Michael's Cathedral). The chapel and the adjoining porte cochere are widely considered to be two of the finest pieces of Gothic Revival architecture in Canada.

Take A Break

You won't find many places to grab a snack within the residential heart of Cabbagetown. The exception is Park Snacks (no phone), a take-out-only spot at the southwest corner of Winchester and Sumach. In summer, you can buy drinks, ice cream, or sandwiches here. Riverdale Park West provides many benches that are well shaded by trees. Year-round, you can buy snacks at Riverdale Farm.

On the eastern edge of the park, you'll see the entrance to:

12. Riverdale Farm

I love this working farm in the heart of downtown Toronto. Its setting might seem incongruous, but it's a charming place to visit, particularly if you have children in tow. Even if you don't, you can appreciate the chicks, bunnies, cows, goats, and other animals.

When you leave the farm, turn to the left and follow its perimeter; this will give you a good view of:

13. The Don Valley

There's been a big movement to "Bring Back the Don" in Toronto, and the valley has been revitalized by it. The Don River is no longer a mighty force, but at least its valley is green. If you look to the north, you'll see the Bloor Street Viaduct (one of the best viewing points in the city).

Walk west along Spruce Street to Sumach; on the northwest corner, you'll see:

14. Spruce Court

This was the first public-housing project in Canada. This utopian collection of two- and three-story cottages was built in 1913 by the appropriately named architect Eden Smith. All face either onto the street or one of the leafy private courtyards. Many, though not all, of the housing blocks were designed in English Cottage style, which was intended to evoke the bucolic splendor of country life. You can't see the interiors -- since 1980, these have been private family homes run by a co-op -- but from the street you can appreciate the half-timbered gables, the tall chimneys, and arched brick porches.

Walk south along Spruce Street to Gerrard Street; from here, you can catch any westbound streetcar, which will take you to College Station.