In Three Days

Spend your first 2 days following the 'In Two Days' tour, and top it off with this exploration of Toronto's cultural mosaic and its art scene. At its core, Toronto is a patchwork of distinctive neighborhoods. This tour will take you through some of the oldest, which have evolved over the years. Start: Dupont Station and walk 2 blocks north.

1. Casa Loma

I believe in starting your day on a high note, literally and figuratively. Casa Loma really is a castle, and it's on a hill that gives you an inspiring view of the sweep of the city (you'll see a lot more of Toronto than you did from the CN Tower the day before yesterday). But while you can admire the view for free, I strongly encourage you to visit the castle, too. The elegant rooms and period furniture are appropriately grand, though my favorite moments come when you get to climb the towers (one Norman, one Scottish, both great).

2. Kensington Market

You couldn't get further from the Old Money refinement of Casa Loma. Kensington Market is a multiethnic mélange with strong smells (fish markets) and strong sounds (stores with pumping stereos, conversations in a dozen different languages on any street you cross). This was a Jewish neighborhood long ago, but successive waves of immigration have added Portuguese and West Indian flavors. If you want to bring home some great finds, do some shopping in this area (check out Tom's Place, Fresh Baked Goods, and Courage My Love).

3. Take a Break

It's not a cafe, so there's no place to sit down. But Chocolate Addict is the perfect spot to get some ice cream or chocolate truffles to fuel your adventures (that's what keeps me going, anyway). 185 Baldwin St. tel. 416/979-5809.

4. Chinatown

Toronto has a large Chinese population dispersed throughout the city, but this is the historic home of the Chinese community. It's changed since its early days, particularly because of the infusion of Hong Kong money. It's such a large and significant area that it's a shame no official entryway exists. The recent addition of gilded statues of dragons and the like on poles in the middle of Spadina Avenue is a nice touch, however.

5. Art Gallery of Ontario

At press time the renovation is in full frenzy, and the gallery is closed. It is expected to reopen early in 2008, and the newly expanded space will be a must-see. The AGO has the best collection of Henry Moore sculpture in the world, as well as European masters, Canadian painters and sculptors, and African and Australian aboriginal art.

6. Sharp Centre for Design

It amuses me that Toronto had such a reputation for being straitlaced in the past. It's always seemed to me that when people do wacky things here, hardly anyone raises an eyebrow. Take Casa Loma. Or this relatively new addition to the city's architectural landscape. Don't bother going inside (you can't get in unless you're a student of the Ontario College of Art & Design); all the drama is right in front of you.

7. Queen Street West

Until recently, this would have been the Wild West of the downtown core. Now it's mainly a space for some very cool boutiques (Price Roman, Pam Chorley, Peach Berserk, and the like). It's also got a reputation as Toronto's Gourmet Ghetto -- innovative yet well-priced menus abound in these parts.

8. Take a Break

You've earned a hearty meal, and you can have a proper one here at Tortilla Flats. I'm pretty much obsessed with the potato skins (cheese, bacon, and sour cream -- who wouldn't be?), but there's plenty to choose from on the menu. Just try to resist the margaritas . . . or not. 458 Queen St. W. tel. 416/203-0088.

9. The Art & Design District

This is one of Toronto's most exciting neighborhoods. Until relatively recently it was divey and derelict and, quite honestly, a depressing place to be. Now it's filled with art galleries (such as Stephen Bulger's) and independent boutiques run by local designers. Mid- to late afternoon is the perfect time to check it out, because everything is open (some of the shops are closed all morning) and the street is full of life.

10. Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art

You've already seen the iconic art of the AGO; now's your chance to see what happening in today's art scene. MOCCA is a gallery that is getting a reputation for its (sometimes freaky) temporary exhibits. Hey, tattoos and body piercings are art, too.

11. Little Italy

For years, Little Italy was written up as the coolest neighborhood in the city, the country, even North America. Then other areas, like the Art & Design District and the Distillery historic district (which you visited yesterday) started hogging the limelight. Truthfully, Little Italy is still fabulous, and the best time to see it is at night. Stop at a sexy bar like Sutra for drinks; enjoy dinner at a trattoria such as Veni Vidi Vici; and dance the night away at El Convento Rico.