Toronto is a beautiful city in spite of itself -- or, rather, in spite of some of the city planners and developers who have torn down valuable parts of the city's architectural legacy in the name of progress. Toronto grew by leaps and bounds in the Victorian and Edwardian eras, which is why there are so many stunning buildings from those times (take a walk around the University of Toronto campus for a quick introduction to the different styles; also, the Ontario Legislature and the old city hall stand out as particularly striking examples). However, much of the 20th century wasn't as kind: Clumsy planners plunked the Gardiner Expressway near the waterfront -- making what should have been prime territory into a wasteland -- and roughly 28,000 buildings were demolished between 1955 and 1975. A few of the buildings that went up during that era were stunners, such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's black-glass Toronto-Dominion Centre and Viljo Rewell's new city hall. And although Toronto has its share of forgettable buildings, enough Gothic-inspired ones survived to allow the city to make a convincing stand-in for New York on-screen. If you're interested in exploring Toronto's architectural history, the Royal Ontario Museum's ROMwalks programs are an excellent way to go.
Tip: Looking Sharp -- No building in Toronto is more distinctive than the Sharp Centre for Design. While it doesn't dominate Toronto's skyline the way that the CN Tower does, it's a work of stark originality. Designed by renowned architect Will Alsop, it opened in 2004 to near-universal shock . . . and acclaim, including a Worldwide Architecture Award from the Royal Institute of British Architects. The upper portion of the structure is referred to as the "table top," and its white-and-black checkerboard body stands 26m (85 ft.) above the street on 12 spindly, colorful legs. It's most dramatic at night, when it's lit by 16 large metal lights with blue bulbs. Sadly, it's only open to students of the Ontario College of Art & Design, not the public. It's located on McCaul Street just south of Dundas Street West.
A Place in the Sun . . . With Music -- While it's easy to get carried away in the shops of Eaton Centre, don't overlook Trinity Square, on the west side of the building near the Sears department store. The complex surrounds two of Toronto's oldest landmarks: Church of the Holy Trinity, dating to 1847, and Scadding House (tel. 416/598-4521), home of Trinity's rector. Concerned citizens demanded that the developers not block sunlight from reaching the buildings. They got their way -- the sun continues to shine on the church's twin towers.
If you can, drop by on a Monday: Holy Trinity hosts an eclectic concert series called "Music Mondays" that features everything from modern jazz to Hindustani classical music (visit the church's website at www.holytrinitytoronto.org for the schedule, or call tel. 416/598-4521, ext. 222). Concerts take place at 12:15pm and there is a requested C$5 (US$4.75/£2.25) donation.
Tip: The Big O -- The University of Toronto has some of the most eclectic architecture in the city. Unfortunately, one of the most talked-about buildings is one that you can't get inside: the Graduate House, located at the campus's western edge at 60 Harbord St. (at Spadina Ave.). Designed by architect Thom Mayne, this award-winning building looks not unlike a concrete bunker, and the giant UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO sign only has the last letter visible at most viewing angles, earning the structure the nickname "The Big O."
