Messis

Nearly 20 years old, this simple bistro is Eugene Shewchuk's vision realized: He wanted to create an accessible and pleasant spot with good food and fair prices, a place where cooks can happily eat. The menu changes frequently, keeping as its mainstays Italian pastas and Mediterranean meat dishes, and ranging into Asia, too. Thin-crust pizzas are kept simple, and mains tend to stick to a small selection of two meats, one fish. It's all very good. To boot, it was one of the first fine restaurants along the Harbord Street strip, which now has good options from one block to the next. The California-dominated wine list is as reasonably priced as the food.

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