Driving Tours

Start & Finish: Harbour Drive, in the center of Road Town.

Time: 2 hours, not counting stops.

Best Time: Any day before 5:30pm.

Worst Time: Sunday, when many places are closed.

This tour concentrates on Tortola's West End, site of some of the lovelier beaches and vistas. Along the north coast you'll find many of the least-developed beaches, which boast imaginative names like Apple Bay, Little and Great Carrot bays, and Ballast Bay. Stop at any of them to swim or snorkel wherever it looks safe; if in doubt, ask a local.

Begin your tour at:

1. Wickham's Cay

Here you'll find the densest concentration of shops and restaurants in Road Town. At first glance, Road Town seems to be a scattered sprawl of modern buildings that form a crescent along the harbor front and up the hillsides. At Wickham's Cay, however, some of the town's charm is more apparent, with its clapboard painted in bright pastel colors, shutters at the windows, and verandahs gracing the facades.

From Road Town, head southwest along the coastal road, passing the capital's many bars and restaurants. You'll also pass St. Paul's Episcopal Church (established in 1937) and the Faith Tabernacle Church. Less than 3.2km (2 miles) away on your left is the sandy peninsula containing:

2. Nanny Cay Marina and Hotel

There's an attractive restaurant here called Pegleg Landing and the opportunity to view some fine yachts bobbing at anchor.

Along the same road, 4km (2 1/2 miles) southwest of Road Town, you'll get panoramic views of 8km-wide (5-mile) Sir Francis Drake Channel, which is loved by yachters throughout the world as the heart of sailing in the Virgin Islands. It is a beautiful stretch of water filled with some of the most expensive yachts in the Western Hemisphere. The white triangles of their sails against the incredible blue sea is one of the great scenic experiences in the Caribbean. Irregularly shaped islands (most of them uninhabited) appear on the south side of the channel, curving around like a pearl necklace. This expanse of uncluttered road is one of the loveliest on Tortola.

The crumbling antique masonry on the right side of the road (look through the creeping vegetation) is the ruins of a stone prison built by the English in the 18th century for pirates and unruly slaves. Lush St. John will appear across the distant channel.

Continuing on, you'll come to the unpretentious hamlet of:

3. West End

Here, you'll see the pier at Soper's Hole. Yachters and boaters report to the immigration and Customs officer stationed here.

Turn left on the hamlet's only bridge to:

4. Frenchman's Cay

Enjoy the scenic view and, to the west, Little Thatch Island.

Retrace your route toward Road Town. At the first major intersection, turn left up Zion's Hill. Tucked into a hollow in the hillside is the:

5. Zion Hill Methodist Church

This church boasts a devoted local following despite its rural isolation.

Continue on the road that runs along the island's northern coast, past some of its greatest beaches; you'll pass the Methodist Church of Carrot Bay and the Seventh-Day Adventist Church of Tortola.

Take a Break -- Quito's Gazebo (tel. 284/495-4837) is located at Cane Garden Bay, on the island's north coast. The owner is Quito Rymer, one of the island's best musicians. The place serves piña coladas (either virgin or laced with liberal quantities of local Callwood's rum) in an enlarged gazebo built almost directly above the waves.

After Quito's, the road will cut inland, climbing dramatically through forests and fields; a sweeping view will unfold continuously behind you. Soon, you'll be forced to make a turn. Fork left and continue for a short distance along the rocky spine that runs down the length of the island. A sign will point to a platform offering one of the finest views on Tortola:

6. Skyworld

This eagle's-nest aerie of a restaurant has survived the most violent hurricanes. It offers unparalleled views of the entire island, as well as food and drink. Many daytime visitors return to Skyworld for a candlelit dinner.

After passing Skyworld, continue east for about 1.6km (1 mile). Take a right whenever the road forks. After the second right fork, the road descends, passing houses, churches, suburbs, and schools, and eventually joining the main road running beside the waterfront at Road Town.