In Vieux Toulon, between the harbor and boulevard de Strasbourg (the main axis of town), are many remains of the port's former days. A colorful food market, conducted Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 1pm, Le Marché du Cours Lafayette spills onto the streets around cours Lafayette. Also in old Toulon is the Cathédrale Ste-Marie-Majeure (tel. 04-94-92-28-91), built in the Romanesque style in the 11th and 12th centuries, and expanded in the 17th. The badly lit nave is Gothic; the belfry and facade are from the 18th century. It's open daily from 7:30am to noon and 2:30 to 7pm.
In contrast to the cathedral, tall modern buildings line quai Stalingrad, opening onto Vieille d'Arse. On place Puget, look for the atlantes (caryatids), figures of men used as columns. These interesting figures support a balcony at the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) and are also included in the facade of the naval museum.
Musée de la Marine, place du Ingénieur-Général-Monsenergue (tel. 04-94-02-02-01), contains figureheads and ship models. Year-round, it's open Wednesday to Monday 10am to 6pm. Admission is 5€ ($6.50) for adults, 3.50€ ($4.55) for students, free for ages under 18.
Musée de Toulon, 113 bd. du Maréchal-Leclerc (tel. 04-94-36-81-00), displays works from the 16th century to the present, including Provençal and Italian paintings and religious works. The latest acquisitions include New Realism pieces and minimalist art. It's open Tuesday to Sunday noon to 6pm; admission is free.
Panoramas & Views
After you've covered the top attractions, we suggest taking a drive, an hour or two before sunset, along the corniche du Mont-Faron. This scenic boulevard along the lower slopes of Mont Faron affords views of the busy port, the town, the cliffs, and, in the distance, the Mediterranean.
Earlier in the day, consider boarding a téléphérique, or funicular (tel. 04-94-92-68-25), near the New Hôtel La Tour Blanche . It operates Tuesday to Sunday 9:30am to noon and 2 to 6:30pm (closed mid-Nov to Feb 3); the round-trip costs 6.10€ ($7.95) for adults, 4.30€ ($5.60) for children 4 to 10 years old. At the top, enjoy the view and then visit the Memorial du Débarquement en Provence, Mont Faron (tel. 04-94-88-08-09), which documents the Allied landings in Provence in 1944, among other events. It's open in summer daily 10am to noon and 2 to 4:30pm; from mid-September to June, it's open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to noon and 2 to 4:30pm. Admission is 3.80€ ($4.95) for adults, 1.55€ ($2) for children 8 to 16.