Side Trips

A Side Trip to Magnetic Island

8km (5 miles) E of Townsville

"Maggie" is a delightful 51-sq.-km (20-sq.-mile) national park island 20 minutes from Townsville by ferry. About 2,500 people live here, and it's popular with Aussies, who love its holiday atmosphere. Don't be put off by the rather stark look of the brand-new resort developments flanking the ferry landing. Head farther into the island and you'll find a busy little place with plenty of unspoiled (for now at least) places to restore your soul. Small settlements dot the coastline and there's a good range of restaurants and laid-back cafes. Most people come for the 20 or so pristine and uncrowded bays and white beaches, but hikers, botanists, and birders may want to explore the eucalyptus woods, patches of gully rainforest, and granite tors. The island got its name when Captain Cook thought the "magnetic" rocks were interfering with his compass readings. It is famous for koalas, easily spotted in roadside gum trees; ask a local to point you to the nearest colony. Rock wallabies are often seen in the early morning. Maggie, by and large off the tourist trail, is definitely a flip-flops kind of place.

Visitor Information -- There is no information center on Magnetic Island. Stop off at the Flinders Mall Visitor Information Centre (tel. 1800/801 902 in Australia, or 07/4721 3660) in Townsville before you cross to the island. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and weekends from 9am to 1pm.

Getting There & Getting Around -- Sunferries (tel. 1800/447 333 in Australia, or 07/4726 0800) runs 15 round-trips a day from the Breakwater terminal on Sir Leslie Thiess Drive. Round-trip tickets are A$27 (US$24/£12) for adults, A$13 (US$12/£5.85) for children 5 to 15, and A$58 (US$52/£26) for families of five. The trip takes about 25 minutes.

You can take your car on the ferry, but most people get around by renting an open-sided minimoke (similar to a golf cart) from the many rental outfits on the island. Minimokes are unlikely to go much over 60kmph (36 mph). Moke Magnetic (tel. 07/4778 5377) rents them for around A$68 (US$61/£31) a day, including fuel. The Magnetic Island Bus Service (tel. 07/4778 5130) runs a 3-hour guided tour of the island for A$40 (US$36/£18) for adults, half-price for kids 5 to 15, or A$100 (US$90/£45) for families of four. Tours leave at 9am and 1pm daily from Nelly Bay Harbour.

Out & About on the Island

There is no end to the things you can do on Maggie -- snorkeling, swimming in one of a dozen or more bays, catamaran sailing, waterskiing, paraflying, horseback riding on the beach, biking, tennis or golf, scuba diving, sea kayaking, sailing or cruising around the island, taking a Harley-Davidson tour, fishing, and more. Equipment for all these activities is for rent on the island. Most activities spread out around Nelly Bay (where the ferry pulls in); the island's other two settlements, Arcadia and Horseshoe Bay; and Picnic Bay.

The island is not on the Great Barrier Reef, but surrounding waters are part of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. There is good reef snorkeling at Florence Bay on the southern edge, Arthur Bay on the northern edge, and Geoffrey Bay, where you can even reef-walk at low tide. (Wear sturdy shoes and do not walk directly on coral to avoid damaging it.) First-time snorkelers will have an easy time of it in Maggie's weak currents and softly sloping beaches. Outside stinger season, there is good swimming at any number of bays all around the island. Reef-free Alma Bay, with its shady lawns and playground, is a good choice for families; Rocky Bay is a small, secluded cove.

One of the best, and therefore most popular, of the island's 20km (13 miles) of hiking trails is the Nelly Bay-Arcadia trail, a one-way journey of 5km (3 miles) that takes 2 1/2 hours. The first 45 minutes, starting in rainforest and climbing to a saddle between Nelly Bay and Horseshoe, are the most interesting. Another excellent walk is the 2km (1 1/4-mile) trail to the Forts, remnants of World War II defenses, which, not surprisingly, have great 360-degree sea views. The best koala spotting is on the track up to the Forts off Horseshoe Bay Road. Carry water when walking -- some bays and hiking trails are not near shops.

If you feel like splurging, consider a jet-ski circumnavigation of the island with Adrenalin Jet Ski Tours & Hire (tel. 07/4778 5533). The half-day tour on a two-seat jet ski costs A$175 (US$158/£79) per person, which includes your wet suit, life jacket, and stinger suits in season. Tours depart from Horseshoe Bay morning and afternoon. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins, dugongs (manatees), and sea turtles.

Magnetic Island Travel Tips -- If you're going to Magnetic Island for the day, pick up a copy of the free Magnetic Island Guide from any tourist information center or hotel lobby or at the ferry terminal in Townsville before you go. Because there are so many activities and tours, it will help if you plan your day before you arrive. Also, there is no bank on the island, so carry cash (not every business will cash traveler's checks) and a credit card.

Warning: Deadly marine stingers make swimming and snorkeling a bad idea October through May, except at the safe swimming enclosures at Picnic Bay and Horseshoe Bay. Lifeguards sweep and patrol Alma Bay, so it is usually safe. You can still do watersports on top of the water if your rental outlet provides a protective Lycra stinger suit, but you won't want to wear one of those in the sticky summer heat from November through March.