Trakoscan may be one of northern Croatia's most visited sites. As you approach it on the gravel switchback path to the entrance, it looks quite stately. Soaring white-and-yellow stone walls, red-tile capped turrets, a drawbridge, and palatial grounds create a fairy-tale illusion around the fortress, built in the 13th century. Trakoscan has seen hard times and gone through many owners since, the last being Juraj Draskovic, who used the castle as a country getaway. Croatia's government took over the property after World War II and, in 1953, Trakoscan was opened to public tours. Today, Trakoscan is still an imposing sight on its hill in Zagorje, but the exterior restoration is far more impressive than the improvements behind its walls. In fact, some of what's inside is downright tacky, though that doesn't mean the displays aren't worth seeing. The first floor is faithful to the 19th century, with period furniture, lots of wood, and portraiture. On higher floors, you'll find crude ancient weaponry, a mishmash of furniture, walls with exposed patches of original wallpaper, and a couple of original tapestries. Note that each room has a unique, fed-from-behind stove, some with very ornate carvings. Also, among the dour, dark, and not particularly well-done portraits, a few by Julijana Erdody stand out as better than average. Unfortunately, that assessment doesn't apply to the painting techniques used on the walls. Heavy-handed trompe l'oeil and sponge-painting attempt to re-create period wallpaper designs, and the result is puzzling and bizarre. Trakoscan has much that is worth seeing, and a lot that destroys its restoration credibility.