Yamawa Guesthouse (www.yamawagesthouse.com; tel. 099402-0349) is  rustic but cozy with owners who are passionate about making sure their guests discover all that Trang has to offer. Rooms range from 350B fill up early for high season. Mitree House (tel. 07521-2292) is a charming guesthouse with lots of space to spread out. Some of the rooms don’t have windows but the bathrooms are big and bright. A helpful staff, fast Wi-Fi, and cozy communal areas round out a stay; rooms from 750B.

Sin Ocha (on Kantang Road) has nearly 7 decades of business to its name and locals come here for dim sum, great breakfast, and roasted pork. It’s old-school Thai-Chinese and a real institution. The night market near Praram VI Road has some really amazing Thai dishes including fried chicken, tons of curries, deep-fried hunks of tofu, noodles, fruit, and more. Come hungry, it’s open daily from 4-9pm.

WHERE TO STAY ON THE ISLANDS

If you prebook a stay on the nearby islands, the resorts will help with transfers; otherwise, head for the ferries that leave frequently from Pak Meng Pier. Ko Ngai (aka Ko Hai) is the most developed island, with half a dozen smart places, including the quaint CoCo Cottages (www.coco-cottage.com; tel. 07522-4387), an environmentally friendly cluster run by a cheerful Thai family; beach cottages range from 3,300B to 6,800B. Another good bet is right next door, where the Thapwarin Resort (www.thapwarin.com; tel. 081894-3585) has big, comfy bamboo and rattan cottages for similar rates. Thanya Resort (www.kohngaithanyaresort.com; tel. 07520-6967) has a gorgeous pool, dive center, great Thai restaurant, and rooms from 3,700B.


On Ko Mook, go for Sivalai Resort (www.komooksivalai.com; tel. 08972-33355), which stands on a dramatic spur of land that is the best on the island with a beach on both sides; rooms start at 5,000B. Finally, on gorgeous Ko Kradan, the best place to stay is the Seven Seas Resort (www.sevenseasresorts.com; tel. 07520-3389), where rooms and villas go for 6,000B to 12,000B. If that’s too much, try Kalume (www.kalumekradan.com; tel. 080932-0029) where beachfront bungalows are no frills but go for 1,200B a night.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.