Hiking & Climbing in the Fagaras Mountains
Between Brasov and Sibiu lie the lovely Fagaras Mountains, a popular Carpathian hiking region, studded with glacial lakes and soaring peaks. Reachable during peak summer months from Wallachia along the high-altitude Transfagarasan Highway, there are other, less daunting routes accessed via Highway 1, running between Brasov and Sibiu. The region has plenty of overnight "cabanas," making the massif well suited to independent hikers. The main towns in the region are Fagaras and Victoria, the latter the principal starting point for most hikers; it's just 10km (6 1/4 miles) south of the highway. There are great hikes toward Mount Moldeveanu (Romania's highest point at 2,543m/8,341 ft.), which is popular with climbers who can settle in for the night at Cabana Podragu. About 10km (6 1/4 miles) east of Victoria is the 17th-century Brâncoveanu Monastery; from the monastery, you can hike south, more or less along the Sâmbata River, to reach Cabana Valea Sambetei (tel. 0269/31-5756).
From Cabana Cascada Bâlea, there's a cable car to take you up to 1,968m (6,560 ft.), where you can explore glacial Lake Balea, where Villa Paltinul (tel. 269-524277; www.balea-lac.ro; try to book the main bedroom), once a small hunting lodge for Nicolae Ceausescu, is a convenient stopover for hikers, and well-managed by Olaru Marius. From the lake, you can also follow a trail to Negoiu Peak, the region's second-highest mountain.
In winter, there's now also novelty accommodations available at the eight-roomed, highly seasonal Bâlea Lac Ice Hotel. Situated at an altitude of 2,040m (6,500 ft.) and created with ice from Lake Bâlea, the star-shaped igloo of a hotel takes about 1 month to build and requires an indoor temperature of 37°F (-3°C). First built in early 2006 and only available until May (at the latest), the hotel's guest rooms feature sheepskin-covered ice beds and ice versions of Brancusi sculptures. Doubles are a mere 37€ ($46); book through Meridian Travel (www.ice.hotel.balea.lac.en.meridian-travel.ro).
En Route to Maramures
There's a long stretch between southern Transylvania and the northern frontier region of Maramures; consider cutting the journey by stopping in Transylvania's capital city, Cluj-Napoca. A smart university town believed to be the most expensive place in the country to live, it's a cosmopolitan place, best measured by the popularity of its cafe culture; grab a seat at a venue around Piata Unirii and you'll find the place filled with supercool posers wearing D&G apparel and tearing around in sports cars, their faces hidden behind massive sunglasses. The best place to stay is Déjà Vu (Str. Ion Ghica 2, Cluj-Napoca; tel./fax 0264/35-4941/61; www.deja-vu.ro; 80€-88€/$100-$110 double with breakfast), a great little Art Nouveau-style hotel in a quiet residential neighborhood near the historical center. The restaurant here is one of the best in town, and the staff extremely helpful.
