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Five-star resorts on Ko Chang undoubtedly offer the area's best gourmet choices, while roadside diners and seafood shacks are great budget options. Invito (tel. 03955-1326), on Had Sai Khao, serves wood-fired pizzas. Or splash out on the modern Italian fare on offer at Amari's Sassi (tel. 03955-2000), in Klong Phrao. On Had Sai Khao is Paddy's Palms (tel. 084930-3240), serving Sunday roasts and British pub grub as well as Guinness. Farther south, you'll find Cinnamon, at Aana resort (tel. 03955-1539), which serves up Thai seafood favorites. Crust (tel. 03955-7157) is a delightful bakery that serves fresh breads, sandwiches, and cakes in Klong Phraew (opposite the temple). For sublime veggie food, head to the Spa (tel. 03955-3093), at Salak Kok; it's worth the hike.

Trat

If you arrive after the last ferry and get stranded, head into Trat. The Muang Trat Hotel, at 40 Wijitjanya Rd. (tel. 03951-1091), has 140 very basic rooms: A double with a fan costs 250B, or it's 370B for a double with air-conditioning.

Ko Chang

Accommodations-wise, Ko Chang has everything for everyone, from cheap jungle huts to full-on luxury resorts; keep in mind that smaller places will be very much DIY. If you fancy a week of serious detox, colonics, meditation, and yoga, head to the Spa Ko Chang -- it's the sole upscale resort on the peaceful, less-developed east coast.

Nightlife and cheap eats are available all down the west coast from Had Sai Khao (White Sand Beach), through Had Kai Mook (Pearl Beach), Laem Chaichet, Had Klong Phrao, Kai Bae, Had Tha Nam (Lonely Beach), and Bai Lan down to Bang Bao. Some great seafood can also be found at no-name shacks on the east coast.

Ao Klong Son to Had Klong Phrao

The buzzing northern strip of Had Sai Khao and Had Kai Mook tends to pull in budget travelers, while Had Klong Phrao is more upscale. In between, Laem Chai Chet offers a relatively quieter option.

Moderate -- There are plenty of midrange places along busy Had Sai Khao, but a couple of the more popular larger hotels are the concrete behemoth Cookies Hotel (tel. 03955-1056; www.cookieskohchang.com) and the more rustic KC Grande Resort (tel. 03955-2111; www.kckohchang.com). Both have pools and a wide range of rooms beginning at around 2,000B.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.