Toni del Spin

Frommer's Review

Alfredo Sturlese has taken over for Toni, who opened this down-home joint more than 70 years ago. Blackboards with the daily list of dishes hang from the rough crossbeams beneath high, sloping wood ceilings. The kitchen prepares a carefully considered mix of simple but intriguing dishes such as gazbacho andaluz (cold tomato vegetable soup), panzerotti di funghi al burro (fried mushroom pastries), spiedino di carne misto alla griglia (grilled shish kebob of mixed meats), and faraona con polenta (guinea fowl with polenta). The house wine is good, and they charge decent prices on a select list of regional bottles -- they even run a wine shop across the street.

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