Trinidad, given its starring role on the tourist circuit, is one of the better shopping towns in central and eastern Cuba (though far from a shopper's paradise). In addition to the requisite cigar and music shops, several of Trinidad's atmospheric, cobblestone streets are converted daily into street markets featuring handicrafts, lace, and clothing items. While lace and clothing are the main attraction, you can also find interesting woodcarvings, musical instruments, masks, and a host of ceramic works. The street with the most variety tends to be Peña, near the Museo Municipal de Historia tower, while most of the lace and textile merchants, who occasionally have good guayabera shirts, tend to cluster on the small streets just east of the Plaza Mayor.
The art gallery on the south side of the Plaza Mayor, Galería de Arte ARTex, has two floors of contemporary art, much of it very accessible, and the traditional souvenir renderings of Trinidad.
The place for cigars and tobacco paraphernalia in town, La Casa del Tabaco, has two branches and carries all the finest Cuban cigars, carefully stored. The shop at San Proscopio 296 (at the corner of José Martí) is open daily from 9am to 8pm; the branch on Francisco Javier Zerquera (at the corner of Maceo), is open daily from 9am to 6pm. The latter location even has an Internet connection, in case you want to write home to take cigar orders.
Much of the ceramic wares you'll see for sale around Trinidad are produced by the Santander family, whose history in this art goes back generations. You can visit their small factory, El Alfarero Casa Chichi (tel. 419/3146; Andrés Berro 51, between Abel Santamaria and Pepito Tey), although it's best to call in advance and tell them you're coming.
The most complete Cuban CD store in town, ARTex, is annexed to the Casa de Música on Fernando H. Echerri, where you'll find nightly performances of live music. The clerks will usually play just about anything you want to hear.
