Unlike Oslo or Bergen, Trondheim isn't surrounded by a lot of "must-see" satellite attractions. But all true Norwegians, or Norwegian-Americans, head for Stiklestad.
Stiklestad -- Lying 90km (56 miles) northeast of Trondheim, Stiklestad is the most famous historic site in Norway. It was the site of an epic battle on July 29, 1030, between the forces of King Olaf Tryggvason and a better-equipped army of Viking chieftains. The battle marked the twilight of the Viking era and the inauguration of the Middle Ages, a transition that would greatly change the face of Norway.
Although Olaf lost the battle and was killed, in death he triumphed. Word of his death spread, and in time he was viewed as a martyr to Christianity. His followers made him a saint, and as the years went by, Saint Olaf became the very symbol of Norway itself. In the wake of his martyrdom, Christianity quickly spread across the land, and monasteries sprouted up all over the country. As his fame and popularity grew, Olaf's grave site at Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim became the goal of nationwide pilgrimages. In time, his death would lead to the unification of Norway under one king.
Every year on the anniversary of his death, a pageant is staged at the open-air theater in Stiklestad, using 350 actors and drawing thousands in the audience. Launched in 1992, the Stiklestad Nasjonale Kulturhus (tel. 74-04-42-00) is like a virtual theme park, with exhibitions of the famous battle, plus a folk museum and a church from the 12th century. Some of the artifacts on display here were actually relics of the battle, which were discovered by archaeologists.
The open-air Stiklestad Museum is a living tableau of regional village life from the 17th century. In summer there are demonstrations of farm life, and on-site is a carpenter's cottage, along with a water mill and an old-fashioned, 18th-century style sauna.
Stiklestad Kirke is a Romanesque church from 1150 built over a former wooden church on the exact spot where it is believed that King Olaf was felled in battle. In 1500 the nave of the little church was extended, and some 9 centuries later a series of 16th-century frescoes that had been used to decorate the walls of the nave were uncovered. At one time a stone that was said to have been the rock on which Olaf leaned before he died was on display here. In medieval times it was said that the stone had miraculous healing powers, but in time it disappeared, never to resurface. A soapstone baptismal font from the 12th century is the only artifact remaining from ancient times. A series of paintings in the chancel, commissioned for the 900th anniversary of the battle, relates the events of that fateful day.
The center can be visited from June to mid-August daily from 9am to 8pm. In the off season, hours are daily 11am to 5:30pm. In summer admission is 100NOK ($15/£8.25) for adults, 55NOK ($8.45/£4.50) for children. In the off season, the price is reduced to 65NOK ($10/£5.35) for adults, or 35NOK ($5.40/£2.90) for children. On-site is a restaurant with a museum cafe.
There is no train station at Stiklestad. The nearest depot is at Verdal, lying 6km (3 3/4 miles) away. The train from Trondheim to Verdal takes 1 3/4 hours, costing 150NOK ($23/£12). At Verdal you can take local bus no. 22; all go within 2km (1 1/4 miles) of the site, costing 25NOK ($3.85/£2.05). The trip takes only 15 minutes. Motorists from Trondheim can reach the center by taking the E6 northeast.
