What's New

If thoughts of a slow international economy and ongoing insurgencies in Afghanistan and Iraq are holding you back, rest assured: Turkey has more than gracefully weathered the storm. The nation's economic growth rivals that of China's, while tourism is up, up, up, for the first time in several years. So, in spite of somewhat inflated prices in comparison to previous years, Turkey still presents itself as one of the best, safest, easiest, and all-around rewarding destinations in the region.

Planning Your Trip

The Turkish government opened a new Tourism Office in D.C. at 2525 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Suite 306, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/612-6800; fax 202/319-7446; tourismdc@aol.com).

You can also check out two useful websites for insider information: www.mymerhaba.com, a site maintained by a group of expats in Istanbul, and at www.gatetoturkey.com, the companion site to the airport magazine, The Gate. For the more ambitious, Tömer, the language school attached to Ankara University, has initiated its first Online Turkish Learning Center at www.turkish-center.com.

Visitor Information, Entry Requirements & Money -- Visas for Americans now cost $26 on entry. Visas may be purchased at the visa window next to the immigration counters.

But the big news is that with solid economic growth rivaling that of China's, Turkey finally has reached the level of stability where lopping six zeros off the national currency would not send the country into convulsions. As of January 2005, the Yeni Turk Lirasi, or "New Turkish Lira," equals the previous 1,000,000 "old" Turkish Lira. As of January 2006, only new YTL currency are in circulation.

Getting Around -- With the arrival of Onur Air (www.onurair.com.tr) and more recently, Flyair (www.flyair.com.tr), Turkish Airlines no longer has a monopoly on domestic flights, or on your wallet. Onur and Flyair fly from Istanbul to Ankara, Kayseri, Antalya, and Izmir, in addition to points east. Expect one-way fares for both airlines to level off at around 75YTL ($55).

Istanbul

Getting Around -- The Zeytinburnu-to-Eminönü Tramway has been extended from Eminönü to Besiktas, making jaunts across the Galata Bridge between Sultanahmet and Karaköy (and points beyond) much easier on the feet. Note that you have to exit the train, cross the platform, and change trains at Eminönü on your way to Sultanahmet.

Visitor Information -- The British Consulate is back in its original location at Mesrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebsi (Beyoglu) (tel. 0212/334-6400; fax 0212/334-6401), in a brand-new building -- but this time behind a very secure high wall.

Safety -- Perhaps it's indicative of economic growth, or of increased tourism creating more opportunity, but Istanbul seems to be experiencing a new level of petty crime. And it's seeped into the otherwise pastoral neighborhood of Sultanahmet, where previously, crimes were committed by glorified gigolos with a wink and a smile. Not so now. Men walking alone are now at high risk of being mugged in dark byways, and contents of purses are routinely disappearing. It seems as though the Big Bad City has arrived in the quiet, leafy green neighborhoods of Istanbul's Old City. Take all the precautions you would take visiting any major international metropolis.

Where to Stay -- Boutique hotels, the darling of carpet-sellers-turned-hoteliers, are popping up like mushrooms in Sultanahmet with prices akin to truffles. Kind of diminishes the cache, which is why I recommend sticking to honest originals like the Ayasofya Konaklari, which just underwent a complete upgrade (they used to be called pensions, not mansions), and its sister property, the Yesil Ev, which recently added air-conditioning to all its rooms. Meanwhile, the Hotel Empress Zoe added four suites with gardens. I've also added the new Hotel Erguvan, because it's managed to keep its prices lower than the other boutique wannabes. It's also quite lovely. But the main solution to the problem of where to stay is to shift your center over to the other, increasingly vibrant, part of the city just across the Golden Horn. Ansen 130 is an all-suite hotel that would be just as welcomed on Thompson Street in New York's SoHo as in Istanbul's Beyoglu district. And the Marmara Istanbul has become so popular that to keep up with demand, the owners opened the second, even more stylish Marmara Pera, in the heart of Beyoglu's revival.

Where to Dine -- Doga Balik has earned a position as one of Istanbul's best fish restaurants. But I love this place because their selection of over 30 mezes is the best I've ever had. The vegetable and seafood salads are outstanding, while the organic greens (try the "goat food") will make you moan with pleasure. Go figure.

After Dark -- Istanbulers really love their views. And so do we. The latest hot vista is visible from 360 Istanbul, a panoramic bar and restaurant located practically in the steeple of St. Antoine. The 180-degree views are just as stunning from one of the bars, fish restaurants, and tearooms on the lower level of the Galata Bridge. Sit close to the middle, to avoid views of shoreline sea scum.

What to See & Do in Istanbul -- The future of Istanbul is no longer exclusively in its past. With the opening of the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, the city is clearly looking forward. And in the same spirit of renewal, a group of developers and preservationists bought up an entire neighborhood of turn-of-the-20th-century homes, restored them to their original state of grandeur, and named the whole project Fransiz Sokagi (French Street). Only French restaurants, boutiques, and people selling French stuff need apply for a permit to open a business here.

Around The Sea of Marmara & The North Aegean

Çanakkale TJ's Tours (tel. 0286/814-3121; www.anzacgallipolitours.com) recently arrived on the scene to break the monopoly that Hassle Free has held on tours of Troy and Gallipoli. TJ's can also provide accommodations in their hostel or in their upgraded Eceabat Hotel.

Where to Stay -- The formerly dowdy Akol (tel. 0286/217-9456) has been completely renovated, and is now worthy of its four stars.

The family-run Anzac Hotel (tel. 0286/217-7777) has also undergone a complete overhaul, so that now all rooms have air-conditioning, satellite TV, and high-speed Internet, against a background of Italian walnut. Attached to TJ's Tours is the shiny new Eceabat Hotel (tel. 0286/814-3121), a brand-new pension with three-star amenities. It's located on the shores of the Gallipoli Peninsula opposite Çanakkale, making it just a bit more convenient to the battlefields of Gallipoli.

The Central & Southern Aegean Coasts

Izmir -- The city center known as Pasaport is now connected to the Gulf of Izmir via an expansive seafront promenade. Crowning the project is the restoration of an old customs house designed by Gustave Eiffel that now houses a new entertainment and shopping center called Konak Pier.

Çesme -- The Sisus Hotel (tel. 30-2810-300330 in Greece) is the newest addition to Dalyan Marina, combining style and serenity in one smart little hotel. Over in Çesme town, the Piril Hotel (tel. 0232/712-7574) is no longer the jewel in the rough it was when I first stayed. Instead, it's transformed itself into a five-star luxury property good enough for the smart set disillusioned with Bodrum.

Meanwhile, over in the historically characteristic village of Alaçati, visitors to Çesme can hole up in the shuttered stone Alaçati Tas Hotel (tel. 0232/716-7722), with its multilingual staff and backyard swimming pool.

Visitors can take advantage of the ancient site of Didyma with an overnight at the 150-year-old stone house-turned B&B; a room at the Medusa House (tel. 0256/811-0063) will allow you to enjoy a leisurely, tourist-free consultation with the ancient oracles.

Bodrum -- While those in the know think they're smarter than everyone else for heading out to the hotels on the Bodrum Peninsula, the guests of the Butterfly Hotel (tel. 0252/313-8358) are as smug as can be. This new luxury boutique property is a former home converted into a six-room diamond only a hop, skip, and a jump from the waterfront and twin harbors.

The Turquoise & Mediterranean Coasts

Kas -- The Gardenia Hotel (tel. 0242/836-2368) is a nice, new, and affordable hotel with vistas to die for. It's also within walking distance of restaurants and shops.

Cappadocia & The Interior

Where to Stay -- Adding to the glut of boutique caves in the region is the sumptuously adorned Sacred House (tel. 384/341-7102), named as such because the hotel occupies the space of a former church. The panoramic rooftop lounge and restaurant serves Armenian-leaning food. Meanwhile, to keep up with the pack, Esbelli Evi (tel. 0384/341-3395) now boasts four luxurious and self-contained cave house suites, each with its very own private grassy garden sheltered behind a high stone wall.

Where to Dine -- You can't miss this quintessentially Turkish bar/cafe/restaurant; Alaturca (tel. 0384/271-2176) takes up a two-story building in the town center -- including the bean-bag-strewn lawn outside for whiling the time away.

Ankara

What to See -- The crown jewel of the cult of Atatürk resides, rightfully, within Atatürk Mausoleum (Anitkabir), a sprawling memorial to a great man. So it was right and good that the new Atatürk Museum was inaugurated, complete with light and sound dioramas, oil portraits, and republican memorabilia.

The trend in Turkey toward historic preservation has reached the neighborhood around the Ankara fortress. Most notable is the completion of the Rahmi M. Koç Museum (tel. 0312/309-6800), a new tribute to science and engineering housed in the most impressive Çengelhan, a 16th-century caravansary and merchant trading post.

Where to Stay -- Visitors to Ankara hoping to find five-star amenities without selling out to the big-name franchises now choose the Gordion Hotel (tel. 0312/427-8080), the new and manageably sized boutique property located in the heart of the diplomatic and business center.

The 150-room Swissôtel Ankara, Yildiizevler Mahallesi, 21 Sokak No. 2 (tel. 0312/409-3000; fax 0312/409-3399; www.ankara.swissotel.com), is a new property that opened in May 2006 near the government and ambassador buildings in Çankaya, with lots of standard luxury amenities, tech-savvy conference facilities, and an extensive wellness center. Double rooms go for 122€-366€ ($100-$300). Keep your eyes peeled for some nice incentives throughout 2006.