What's New

If thoughts of a slow international economy and ongoing insurgencies in Afghanistan and Iraq are holding you back, rest assured: Turkey has more than gracefully weathered the storm. The nation's economic growth rivals that of China, while tourism is up, up, up, for the first time in several years. So in spite of somewhat inflated prices in comparison to previous years (bordering on shocking in Istanbul), Turkey still presents itself as one of the best, safest, easiest, and all-around rewarding destinations in the region.

Planning Your Trip

Getting There -- Although the paint is barely dry on the Atatürk International Airport, its international terminal underwent renovations in 2007. It must be a result of the pressure created by increased arrivals and departures, because Turkish Airlines has spread out to the little-known Sabiha Gökçen Airport, located on the outskirts of Istanbul on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Flights are for now mostly domestic, but budget-minded visitors may want to look into service offered by Pegasus (from London, Bologna, and Vienna), Easyjet (from London), Condor (from Amsterdam), and Myair (from Milan). Keep in mind that the bus ride into town will add an additional 90 or so minutes to the trip.

Visitor Information, Entry Requirements & Money -- Entry visas for holders of American passports now cost $29 for admission to what is fast becoming one of the globe's top destinations. Visas for Canadians now cost US$60, Brits pay £10, and the fee for Aussies is up to A$68. Kiwis get in for free. Helping to make the visa fees a bit less painful, Turkey will be lowering its VAT rate, beginning in 2008, from 18% to 8%. New for this edition is the inclusion of conversion rates for both the U.S. dollar and the British pound. Since the last installment of this book, the dollar has plummeted from 1YTL = US$1.35 down to US$1.15.

Getting Around -- Rising prices are not the only consequence of the current frenzy surrounding Turkish tourism. Renewed demand translates to the emergence of new (and old) ferry services. In the summer of 2007, Deniz Cruise & Ferry Lines (www.denizline.com.tr) announced Istanbul-to-Bodrum cruises. Istanbul-to-Izmir excursions were organized through the summer of 2007. There is also a new passenger ferry service from Istanbul to Bursa. As a result of the inflow of cash from tourism and foreign direct investment, the government has invested in infrastructure projects that have brought Turkey's motorways up to European standards.

Istanbul

Getting Around -- A number of domestic airline start-ups are giving the standards a run for their money. These include Pegasus (serving Izmir and Kayseri from Istanbul; www.flypgs.com), IZair (Istanbul to Izmir; www.izair.com.tr), and Atlasjet (serving Istanbul, Ankara, Antalya, Bodrum, Çanakkale, Izmir, and so on; www.atlasjet.com.tr), with fares as low as 45YTL (US$39/£17).

A flurry of restoration and city renewal projects are underway in Istanbul. Istiklal Caddesi is now completely repaved with flat marble blocks. Galip Dede Sokak, leading down from Tünel to the Galata Tower, is no longer dangerous going; instead, it's been newly paved with modern cobblestones and the sidewalks have been widened. Streets all over the city that were formerly dusty and potholed messes have also been newly cobbled. One major improvement is the completion of the tramway all the way up to Kabatas, next to Dolmabahçe Palace. This, together with the new funicular connecting Kabatas with Taksim Square, makes getting around the city (particularly between the Old City and the New) a snap (albeit a crowded one). It also completes the public transport network connecting Atatürk Airport with the city. Still another funicular was completed over in the neighborhood of Eyüp, making that haul up the hill from the base of Pierre Loti Caddesi. Construction of the Marmaray Project, a 76km (47-mile) rail that at its center will include a much-awaited connection from Taksim to the airport, is moving along as best as it can, given the most recent developments. In the process of construction, workers unearthed the groundbreaking remains of a Theodesius-era port at Yenikapi and pre-classical artifacts at Sirkeci. Word of the discovery reverberated throughout the international archaeology community; at last count, archaeologists had uncovered 24 shipwrecks -- the highest concentration of wrecks in the world. The wooden broad-beamed boats still have much of their cargo in them.

Safety -- Perhaps it's indicative of economic growth, or of increased tourism creating more opportunity, but Istanbul seems to be experiencing a new level of petty crime. It's seeped into the otherwise pastoral neighborhood of Sultanahmet, where previously, crimes were committed by glorified gigolos with a wink and a smile. Not so now. Men walking alone are now at high risk of being mugged in dark byways, and contents of purses are routinely disappearing. It seems as though the Big Bad City has arrived in the quiet, leafy green neighborhoods of Istanbul's Old City. Take all the precautions you would take visiting any major international metropolis.

Where to Stay -- Those huge corporate names like Marriott, InterContinental, Radisson, and Starwood just couldn't sit by and watch the little boutique hotels (many of them enterprises created by current and reformed carpet sellers) scoop up all the hotel profits. The result is a sobering addition of more than 70 big-name hotels under construction in 2007 alone. Some highlights: The Apricot Hotel (tel. 0212/638-1658), which was forced to find new digs due to a change in building ownership, is now in a more charming spot around the corner. Several new boutique hotels have opened in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul, including the very special Sultanhan (tel. 0212/516-3232) and the Ottoman Hotel (tel. 0212/513-6150). The Four Seasons (tel. 0212/638-8200) in Sultanahmet somehow got permission to construct an annex at the back of its property. The dig (inevitably an archaeological excavation) is under way. By publication of this guide, the paint should probably be dry on the new Four Seasons the Bosphorus, whose debut has been eagerly anticipated since our last edition. Les Ottomans (tel. 0212/359-1500) will be giving all of these new luxury properties a run for their money -- though with only 10 units, its exclusivity is more than guaranteed. Bringing new style to the back streets of Beyoglu is the Misafir Suites (tel. 0212/249-8930), a seven-unit hideaway with studiolike apartments that any city-dweller would covet. Meanwhile, two old horses, the Pera Palas and the palace section of the eminent Çiragan Palace, are undergoing extensive renovations and should be reopened by the time you read this.

Where to Dine -- Rising prices in Turkey have not stopped the middle and upper classes from packing tables as fast as restaurants can open. A number of outstanding and creative kitchens have popped up since our previous edition. Mikla is the most recent undertaking of celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs (tel. 0212/293-5656). House Café (tel. 0212/259-2377) has emerged as a popular franchise phenomenon. The proletariat-friendly Saray Muhallebiçileri (tel. 0212/292-3434) has opened a number of new locations around the city, in addition to its current location on Istiklal Caddesi, in the space opposite its original location. The cleanup of the streets around Taksim has pumped new life into Kurabiye Sokak (parallel to Istiklal Cad. on the Tarlabasi side), which is now host to a cluster of simple and inexpensive restaurants, both old and new. One standout is Parsifal (tel. 0212/245-2588), serving an inventive all-vegetarian menu.

What to See -- Among the frenzy of restoration projects going on around the city, the splendid Byzantine mosaics on the second-floor gallery of the Ayasofya were just recently cleaned. There's now an extra entrance fee to the upper gallery, in addition to the museum admission. The largest collection of sarcophagi in Turkey, hidden for the last 25 years in storage, is now on display in the Northern Wing of the Istanbul Archaeology Museum (tel. 0212/520-7740), which was inaugurated in 2007. On the less cerebral end of exploring Istanbul, the Süleymaniye Hamami (tel. 0212/519-5569) recently opened to the public but take heed: It's coed.

Shopping -- Two new shopping malls have opened their doors, aiming for the upmarket crowd. The shops at Istinye recreate an upscale village atmosphere above the Bosphorus. And down in Nisantasi, the new indoor City Mall aims to target Istanbul's version of those who shop on Madison Avenue or in Knightsbridge.

Around the Sea of Marmara & the Northern Aegean

Bursa -- Getting There -- New ferry service began in April 2007 from Istanbul's Yenikapi docks to Güzelyali, about 7 miles from Bursa.

Çanakkale -- Where to Stay -- As long as the beer flows when the Aussies are in town, apparently they're not too selective about where they stay. Thus, Çanakkale's tradition of cement-block hotels. The exception is the new Kervansaray (tel. 0286/217-8192), a newly renovated former judge's mansion just steps from the clock tower. For this edition, we are including wider coverage of Turkey's northwestern Aegean Troad, an as-of-yet undiscovered region hidden in plain sight. Step back into the era of Troy by visiting Alexander Troas and Assos, both attached to wonderfully backward little villages, and the idyllic Bozcaada Island, just off the coast.

The Central & Southern Aegean Coasts

Izmir -- Getting There -- Izmir Airport inaugurated its new international terminal in September 2006. The new facility has already increased Izmir's capacity for additional flights, including by charter airlines, and passengers. On the ground, a state-of-the-art multilane toll "beltway" road encircling metropolitan Izmir is now complete.

Getting Around -- The improvement projects just keep coming with Izmir's new metro, which consists of one line running between Bornova, a residential suburb to the northeast of town, to Üçyol just south of Konak. Future extensions are in the works.

Where to Stay -- With its growth as a major commercial center, Izmir now also has a whole new string of first-class hotels to show for its stint as a rising star. Commanding the best chunk of real estate for hotels in town is the new (delayed from Nov 2007 and now scheduled to open Mar 2008) Swissôtel Grand Efes (tel. 0232/483-9761). This majorly business-minded hotel caters to convention tourism, but single travelers may still get lost in there yet. Opposite the Swissôtel and also awaiting its debut in 2008 is the Swiss-owned Mövenpick, a five-star business hotel for those with a three-star budget. The Kordon Hotel (tel. 0232/425-0445) opened in April 2007 on the waterfront wharf facing Pasaport, and the views and pedestrian access to the rest of the city couldn't be any better. With its lipstick-like tower rising above the district of Inciralti, the Crown Plaza (tel. 0232/292-1300) has charisma to spare, with a thermal spring below (and now in the spa), as well as an authentic waterfront neighborhood experience.

Çesme Peninsula -- Getting There -- The completion of the toll road into Çesme and the reengineering and relocation of a few traffic patterns resulted in a move of the bus station to its current location up the road from the main harbor.

Where to Stay -- The Sheraton Çesme (tel. 800/325-3535) completely redid its spa to create a sublime, Asian-inspired eden of relaxing treatments, sensual scents, and soothing decor.

What to Do -- Over in Ilica, a new marina provides direct access to the sea (no beach) and a series of semi-immersed iron ladders beckons to those wishing to head right in.

Sardis -- This ancient city has now been added to the guide. What a fantastic site; sorry we took so long!

Selçuk -- Getting There -- Train service connecting Selçuk with Izmir (and eventually the airport) has been suspended until construction on the new Izmir metro is complete.

Where to Stay -- The new Hotel Bella (tel. 0232/892-3944) opposite the floodlit entry portal to St. John's Basilica is like a breath of fresh air in the unchanging landscape that is Selçuk. The hotel is modest yet typical of the Turkish soul you look for in shopping for accommodations.

What to Do -- The recently founded Crisler Institute (tel. 0252/892-8317) picks up the mantle of Turkish explorations and cultural understanding where researcher and archaeologist B. Cobbey Crisler left off. The institute is a labor of love for Crisler's widow, Janet, who through collaboration with the Austrian Institute of Archaeology offers lectures on the most up-to-date findings at Ephesus.

Bodrum -- Getting There -- Deniz Cruise & Ferry Lines embarks upon an Aegean journey from Istanbul in summertime.

Visitor Information -- With plenty of expats and regular holiday-goers, the Bodrum Observer, the area's newspaper start-up (Jan 2006), seems to have a built-in audience. It tackles local issues like the problem of wildfires, as well as handy information for the tourist.

Where to Stay -- A whole slew of new, luxurious hotels is staking out inlets and bays all over the peninsula. The newcomers covered here are the Kempinski Barbaros Bay (tel. 0252/311-0303), the 4Reasons (tel. 0252/385-3212), Ev (tel. 0252/377-6070), and Adahan (tel. 0252/385-4759).

What to Do -- In a resort where beach clubs exude hip, Bianca Beach (www.biancabeach.com) in Türkbükü is the ticket. Oversize draped beds and sumptuous decor create a decadent dance of beachfront seduction. When not lounging waterside, perhaps a dive (or ride via mini-submarine) to the recently sunken boat decommissioned from the Turkish navy might do the trick.

The Turquoise & Mediterranean Coasts

Marmaris -- Getting There -- A record number of private and charter airlines are now offering direct international service into Dalaman. Onur Air (www.onurair.com.tr) flies direct from London and Birmingham; SunExpress (www.sunexpress.com.tr) also serves the London-Dalaman route. Other European-based charter airlines flying into Dalaman are Easyjet (www.easyjet.com), Monarch Airlines (www.flymonarch.com), Thomas Cook (www.flythomascook.com), and British Midland ().

Fethiye -- Where to Stay -- One of the newer (and more sublime) exclusive properties, the Oyster Residences is actually two separate properties, one in the bull's-eye of Ölüdeniz and one up in the natural forests in Faralya. (For reservations contact Exclusive Escapes in the U.K. at tel. 0208/605-3500.) Recently opened in the new frontier of Faralya is Su Degirmene (www.natur-reisen.de) and in uncharted Yaniklar, the architectural and eco-friendly Pastoral Vadi ().

Where to Dine -- The village of Kayaköy, up in a mountain valley above Fethiye, is growing up so fast. Two new additions have popped up to accommodate the village's more mature (not necessarily old) tastes. The Kaya Wine House (tel. 0252/618-0454) serves wines produced in small, private vineyards, while the wine cellar at the Levissi Garden (tel. 0252/618-0108) has a wider selection.

Kalkan -- Where to Stay -- After years of faithful service, the Kalkan Han is transforming itself from a guesthouse to condominiums. We're sad to see it go. We've found an excellent replacement: the Hotel Rhapsody (tel. 0242/844-2575), a stylish boutique hotel above the harbor, which makes us feel better about just about everything.

Kas -- Where to Stay -- Where do city dwellers go when they retire? Preferably somewhere like the Diva Residence (tel. 0242/836-4255), a perfect Mediterranean retreat -- but as its owners.

What to Do -- In October 2006, underwater archaeologists constructed a replica of the Uluburun shipwreck and sunk it off the coast of Kas. The in situ wreck is now a popular dive destination.

Antalya -- Getting There -- Just like over in Dalaman, Antalya's airport now has a new international terminal, with direct flights from an increasing number of cities abroad. Airlines include British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.), SunExpress (tel. 0232/444-0797 in Turkey), the U.K.-based charter Thomas Cook (www.thomascookairlines.co.uk), Onur Air (tel. 0242/330-3432 in Antalya), the Istanbul-based Atlasjet (tel. 0216/444-3387), and Fly Air (tel. 444-4359).

What to Do -- Antalya's Sand Sculpture exhibition is a whimsical celebration of artistry in sand. Over in Belek, golfing enthusiasts are eagerly awaiting the opening of LykiaLinks (www.lykiagroup.com), the first course in Antalya designed to overlook the Mediterranean. Also new in the world of Turkish golf are the new PGA-approved courses over at the shiny new and palatial Kempinski Hotel The Dome (tel. 0242/710-1300). To the west of Antalya, at the base of Mount Olympos, is a gateway to heaven in the form of the new cable car -- the second longest in the world. The cable car ends up at a mountaintop restaurant, but will eventually be met by ski lifts.

Where to Stay -- The new Marmara Antalya (tel. 0242/249-3600) opened in the summer of 2006, touting their "anything, anytime" theme.

Cappadocia & the Interior

Where to Stay -- Just when you think that Ürgüp has topped off with new hotels, along comes something special like the Serinn (tel. 0384/341-6076). Located in the quiet hilltop neighborhood of Esbelli, the Serinn overlays a modern art concept onto troglodyte living.

What to Do -- With a course of nets dotting the meadows in Üçhisar Valley, Cross Golf (tel. 0384/271-2351), opened in 2007, adapts the game of golf to the local environment.

Ankara

Getting There -- Ankara's Esenboga Airport is another of Turkey's airports to get a new modern terminal, with an annual capacity of 10 million passengers, up from 2 million. Now there are more direct international flights than ever, including BMI (www.flybmi.com), with flights from London Heathrow.

What to Do -- The trend in Turkey toward historic preservation is ramping up. The fortress ramparts and castle, the Temple of Augustus, and the Roman Baths are among the many ambitious projects begun by the Ministry of Culture to steward Turkey's precious patrimony into the future.