Best Hotel Bets

The Best Splurge Hotels

Çiragan Palace (Istanbul; tel. 800/426-3135 in the U.S., 800/363-0366 in Canada, 0800/868-588 in the U.K., 800/623-578 in Australia, 0800/446-368 in New Zealand, or 0212/258-3377 in Istanbul): More than just Istanbul's poshest hotel, the Çiragan Palace is a destination in its own right. The grandeur of the lobby -- tinted by light coming through the stained glass and imbued with the fragrance of fresh roses -- hardly prepares you for what's to come. Expect regal gardens, a delicious Bosphorus-side pool, big fluffy beds, flawless service, and an automated phone system that puts AT&T's to shame. Make sure you splurge for that sea view, or all bets are off.

Four Seasons Hotel (Istanbul; tel. 800/332-3442 in the U.S., or 0212/638-8200): Nothing drives home the magnitude of this hotel's history than to watch a former political prisoner once incarcerated here break down and cry in the hallway. Some original tile and marble details were preserved and reused in the renovation, and you might encounter the rough etchings of an inmate's name in one of the columns. But these days the unqualified opulence and comfort of this grand hotel couldn't be further from its bread-and-water past. Keep your eyes peeled for the much-delayed inauguration of the Bosphorus branch of this wonderful hotel, now scheduled for 2007.

Kismet Hotel (Kusadasi; tel. 0256/618-1290): To get the full effect of the Kismet, go for the gusto and book a suite, preferably with a balustraded balcony. The next morning, watch the waters of the Aegean change color with the rising sun through your sliding glass door, without ever lifting your head off the pillow.

Ada Hotel (Türkbükü, Bodrum Peninsula; tel. 0252/377-5915): If you're looking for the quintessential Turkish elegance, the Ada Hotel's got it, and more. Characteristic, stylish, romantic and utterly memorable, all rolled into a boutique experience on the hillside above the trendy yet serene outpost of Türkbükü.

The Marmara Oteli (Bodrum; tel. 0252/313-8130): Deluxe, sleek, and breathtakingly situated -- the Marmara sometimes feels more like an art gallery than a hotel, though infinitely more inviting. From your perch above Bodrum on a grassy lawn, you can mull over what Philippe Starck would think of the hotel. In your spare time, slink an hour in the hotel spa's saltwater flotation tank.

Hillside Su (Antalya; tel. 0242/249-0700): The over-the-top design concept may lead to snow blindness, but what a way to go. It's sleek, stark, savvy, and razor sharp in its wit. And it comes with all of the necessary holiday trimmings, to architectural specifications, of course.

The Best One-of-a-Kind Places to Stay

Sultanahmet Palace Hotel (Istanbul; tel. 0212/458-0460): A traditional hamam takes the place of a modern bathroom in every room of this hotel, with a supply of bathroom accouterments the Canyon Ranch would be proud of. Reserve one of the suites so that when the lights fade, you can open the drapes and watch sea gulls circle above the lights of the Blue Mosque.

Club Caravanserail (Kusadasi; tel. 0256/614-4115): Staying in an old Selçuk or Ottoman inn doesn't mean you have to settle for badly whitewashed walls or monastery-level accommodations. At this elegant inn, the parquet floors shine and the stone steps leading to the upper floor are steep and cumbersome enough to be totally original.

Villa Mahal (Kalkan; tel. 0242/844-3268): They call it the Pool Room, but it's closer to a honeymoon suite. This free-standing circular room is removed from the main buildings -- which provides a modicum of privacy, if you don't count the walls made entirely of glass. The room has its very own hilltop terrace and private pool. Makes me almost want to get married.

Aboard a Gulet (the Turquoise Coast): The blazing August sun gives way to a mild summer night, and you wake up at dawn on the rear deck of the gulet with the rest of your shipmates, covered in fresh morning dew. The next night you'll know to bring a blanket and slather on some mosquito repellent; but there's nothing like sleeping under the stars, in a cove along the shores of the Mediterranean.

Gamirasu Hotel (Ayvali; tel. 0384/341-5825): The sound of drums at sunset and the fragrance of freshly baked bread wafting from the communal cave ovens are your only companions at this secluded village hotel. Truly a diamond in the rough of the valley, the Gamirasu is a welcome lesson in the simpler things in life.