Hotels in Turkey are classified by a government-designated star system that apparently was established in the Neolithic era, so booking a five-star hotel in Turkey doesn't necessarily guarantee the comfort and amenities of an equivalently rated establishment in a major city like Istanbul. Roughly, stars are awarded for the presence of amenities like fitness centers or conference space, so a worn-out old five-star with moldy bathroom tile might rate higher than a brand-new sky-lit gem with nothing to offer but basic clean rooms, stunning balconies, and a pool.
Unless stated otherwise, all rates quoted in the hotel reviews in this book include breakfast and tax. Many hotels rely exclusively on solar power, which sounds great until you get in a cold shower at sunrise. This is increasingly rare, however, as many establishments are installing backup generators for "24-hour hot water." Power outages are an unavoidable part of daily life, and because the water supply operates on an electric pumping system, there will be no water for the duration of the outage, usually only a couple of hours. In the sweaty heat of the summer, this is where the neighborhood hamam comes in handy.
Typical hotel rooms in Turkey seem to have more rooms with twin beds, so unless you specify that you want a double "French" bed, you and your partner will feel like a couple out of a 1950s sitcom. Fitted sheets seem to be an anomaly in Turkey, so if you're a restless sleeper, expect to get a view of the mattress in the morning. Ask for an extra sheet if there's nothing between you and the blanket, as bed-making habits in Turkey vary from hotel to hotel. And not even the Four Seasons Hotel in Sultanahmet will spare you from the startling blare of the neighborhood's muezzin at sunrise. TVs are generally a standard feature in rooms, but even a TV with a satellite hookup will limit you to BBC World, CNN, and endless hours of cycling tournaments. Local programming is at least captivating, with reruns of Guys and Dolls or The Terminator in Turkish. Another interesting media feature in the room is a built-in radio with centrally piped-in music. There is generally a choice of up to three channels, and if you don't like the music, I discovered that calling down to the reception desk for special requests was effective.
Another standard characteristic of hotels rated three stars or lower (Turkish rating) is the "Roman shower" -- essentially a showerhead on the wall and a drain in the floor. In some cases, you'll get a square enamel stall basin and a shower curtain, and practiced proficiency with the hand-held showerhead will eventually ensure the least amount of leakage on the bathroom floor. Be aware, too, that an ongoing problem of not just the older hotels is the rapidity in which a clear drain will get clogged. I've kept recommendations of these hotels to the exceptional minimum.
During the in-between seasons, many hotels, operating with heating systems programmed to run during the winter months only, may leave you out in the cold. In the absence of central heat, many special-category hotels simply provide standing electric heaters. If you're prone to cold, make sure your hotel offers heat.
All hotels provide laundry and dry-cleaning services, seeing to it in the process that they make a huge profit on the transaction. Depending on the establishment, expect to pay anywhere from 3€ to 7€ ($3.50-$8.50) per item for ordinary laundry. At under 4€ ($5) a load, a local laundromat is a cheap alternative, as long as you don't mind borrowing the hotel iron. Another service offered by all five-star hotels is babysitting, arranged by the hotel through reputable outside agencies.
Also, it is imperative to note that except in rare cases (like full occupancy, which is happening a lot lately), the room rates provided in the listings are "rack rates," fictional prices that are almost never quoted -- not even to the most desperate last-minute walk-in. It is more likely than not that a rate will adjust itself anywhere from 10% to 50% (or more!) at the time of booking, depending on the season and how hungry the owner is. This doesn't mean that hoteliers have become market hagglers; it simply means that the prices listed for hotels are inextricably tied to the market. Parents with kids will be pleased to learn that children 6 and under, and in some cases 12 and under, stay free.
In order to increase business, hotels in Turkey make rooms available at absurdly low rates to travel agents so that they will provide them with business on a regular basis. Ironically, a recent, yet not yet pervasive, development has been for hotels to undercut these agents with their own web rates. Therefore, it is up to the buyer to do the legwork. But buyer beware: not all travel sites advertising cheap hotels on the Web are equally reputable, so I recommend that you stick to the local travel agencies recommended in this guide (or those recommended to you by friends and relatives). For a list of charming hotels beyond those recommended in this guide, log onto www.nisanyan.net (run by the owners of the Nisanyan houses in Sirince) and use the "search hotel" function. Be aware, however, that all of the hotels listed on this site pay a subscription fee and therefore may not be as wonderful in person. A great resource for locating affordable hotels is www.hostelworld.com, which lists youth hostels, tours, and tips for working abroad.
When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a room away from the renovation work or stay elsewhere. Many hotels now offer nonsmoking rooms; if smoke bothers you, by all means ask for one.
Finally, somebody has to get the best room in the house (and somebody has to get the worst). My advice is to book early and confirm what you're getting in advance. Many hotels in Turkey have one standard room rate, good even for a high floor with a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean. Corner rooms can provide an added bonus as well, as they are usually larger and quieter. Superior rooms or junior suites are a great way to pamper yourself, and with the strength of the dollar and current tourist bargaining power, staying in one doesn't have to break the bank. Avoid rooms on the street as they tend to be noisy; paradoxically, the hotels will book you in these first, as they are considered to be superior to those in the rear. Finally, be wary of partnerships between hotels and carpet shops, or worse, carpet dealers masquerading as hoteliers -- rare, but yet another way for these guys to get your undivided attention.
