Health & Safety

There are no severe health risks in travel to Turkey, nor are vaccinations required. It's still a good idea to use common sense in traveling to the more rural areas, although I confess that I rarely follow my own advice, below, and usually do just fine.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Visitors experiencing unexpected illness in Turkey can feel fairly confident in the healthcare he or she will receive. In general, the quality of care will be better in the major cities such as Istanbul, Ankara, Bodrum, and Izmir than in the heartland. For a list of English-speaking physicians practicing in Turkey, contact your embassy or consulate.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAndGuidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Food poisoning and diarrhea are probably the most prevalent illnesses associated with travel to Turkey. Although water from the tap is chlorinated and generally safe to drink, even the locals drink bottled water. Resist the temptation to drink fresh running spring water, even if you see people lined up filling empty bottles. (Please take my word on this.) Avoid unpasteurized dairy products and shellfish during the hot summer months, and maintain a healthy suspicion of street vendors. In the event that you become ill, drink plenty of (bottled) water and remember that diarrhea usually dissipates on its own. Pepto-Bismol (bismuth subsalicylate) can often prevent symptoms, but if the problem becomes truly inconvenient, pharmacists are generally sympathetic and bilingual, and will be able to provide an effective remedy. (Ercefuryl works wonders.)

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Although the persistence and tenaciousness of Turkish mosquitoes might cause you to suffer, it is unlikely that malaria will. The high-risk areas are southeastern Anatolia and the Cukurova/Amikova areas, regions that because of political considerations are not covered in this book. Keep in mind that you're more likely to catch deadly mosquito-borne diseases in your own backyard than abroad. If you are experiencing symptoms, seek prompt medical attention while traveling as well as for up to 3 years after your return. Don't forget to pack a proven insect repellent (especially for those nights camped out on the deck of the gulet).

Rabies is endemic in parts of Turkey, and joggers have been known to be bitten by infected strays. But this is extremely rare. Best to stay away from the animals altogether, advice that, given the sweet temperaments of the street dogs and cats, I myself am incapable of following. If you're concerned, consult your doctor for pre-exposure immunization.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home

Any local consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you do get sick, you may want to ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend a local doctor, even his or her own. This will probably yield a better recommendation than any information number would. Local doctors advertise their services through discreet signs near their offices, and most speak English.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security.

Staying Safe

Newbie Western travelers to Turkey are often plagued by worries over safety: It is a Muslim country, after all, and there is a war going on nearby, right? Well, no, actually. Yes, Turkey's population is mostly Muslim, but I don't need to remind you that all Muslims aren't terrorists, do I? Tsk tsk, if I may. Indeed, I guarantee that one of the first impression that will overwhelm you upon arriving in Turkey is its complete and utter normalcy.

Second, there's a war going on, right? Sure, but it's 1,000 miles (1,609km) away as the crow flies. And as we've all so regrettably learned, distance doesn't contain conflict, and the violence in Iraq menaces us all just as much in London, Toronto, and New York as it does in Istanbul.

Okay, but what about the PKK? Sigh. Radicals committed to violence (in this case, right-wing Kurdish nationalists) are attacking Turkish soldiers in the southeast of the country (the main reason for which this guide only covers the western half). Infrequently, the violence erupts beyond these borders. In my opinion, such an attack targeting foreign tourists would be a strategic mistake; still, it might be a good idea to check in with your appropriate travel advisories. In the U.S., log on to http://travel.state.gov/travel; in the U.K., www.fco.gov.uk; in Canada, www.voyage.gc.ca; in Australia, www.smartraveller.gov.au; and in New Zealand, www.safetravel.govt.nz.

Dealing with Discrimination -- Most first-time travelers to Turkey are somewhat apprehensive about safety issues. The Western media hasn't exactly painted a rosy picture of Turkey -- or of Muslims, for that matter. The first thing to realize is that Turkey is the model for democratic secularism in the Middle East, and although predominantly Muslim, it is merely fanatic about maintaining a separation of church and state. So business goes on as usual, with Turks drinking alcohol (or not), going to mosque (or not), and living life pretty much the same as you and me. Furthermore, as Islam preaches tolerance and acceptance, you may be surprised to feel more comfortable being Jewish in Istanbul than in, say, Columbus, Ohio.

People frequently ask me if Turkey is safe for women. Absolutely, but that doesn't mean that all you sistahs out there should throw common sense to the wind while on holiday. Also, check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Terrorism is on everybody's mind when considering a trip abroad, but in Turkey, where Turks have 20 years of experience fighting terrorists, flare-ups are now the exception rather than the rule. The only time you will get a glimpse of the existence of anything out of the ordinary is in the metal detectors at the entries of some five-star hotels or when traveling by domestic airline. Before boarding, each passenger must single out and identify his or her baggage from the lineup of luggage at the foot of the aircraft. (With any luck, no orphaned bags will be left over.)

Theft is a concern when staying home as much as when traveling. Just display as much caution in Istanbul's covered bazaar as you would at the train station of your nearest metropolitan city. And don't be deceived by the relative idyllic quiet of Istanbul's Sultanahmet neighborhood, as professional thievery is reaching new heights. Of course, it only takes one jerk to ruin your vacation. Typically, you're a target if you look like a tourist and carelessly fumble through your wallet in crowded areas like the train station or the ferry depot. Have your money ready beforehand and keep your handbag zipped up tight and your eyes open. Don't walk anywhere alone at night (this warning includes men). Beware of anyone who brushes up against you, even seemingly pious women in chadors (full-length veils) and adorable little kids straight out of Oliver Twist. Don't leave any valuables in your hotel room unless it's in the room safe. Hang on to your passport.