Brochures and photographs do scant justice to Turkey's exquisite southern coastline -- a route familiar to caesars, saints, sultans, pirates, and at least one infamous Egyptian queen.
The Turquoise Coast which extends roughly from Antalya to Datça, is a slight misnomer because it ignores the emerald pools reflected at the base of thickets of pine trees and the rich sapphire of the open sea. To the west, the Toros (Taurus) Mountains tumble directly into the Mediterranean, making some of these rugged cliffs and shallow coves accessible only by boat. Traveling east to Antalya, rocks give way to small patches of beach, ceding completely to miles and miles of sand. And all along the length of the coastline, a short hop inland reveals long-since landlocked ancient cities that were once important trading and naval ports. The Turkish Riviera is a rich depository of layers of ancient civilizations; mentioned in Homer's Iliad are the Lycians, a heroic people that settled the coast from the Fethiye Bay to Antalya, while the Carians, whose origins still escape us, dominated the southwestern region from Halicarnassus to the shores of Lake Köyçegiz.
Saul, a Greek-speaking Roman citizen and Jew from Tarsus (later known as St. Paul), spread his interpretation of the Old Testament here on his missionary journeys through the Mediterranean, laying the groundwork for some of the earliest remnants of Christianity. The legacy of these people can be found in the majestic tombs hewn into lofty cliffs, sarcophagi crowned with Gothic helmets, and ancient cities sunken beneath transparent waters. On a boat excursion into a secluded cove, it's inevitable that you will stumble upon an ancient theater, a toppled Roman bath, or the remains of a pagan temple.
Thirty years ago, the destinations in this guide slowly began to transform from idyllic and unspoiled fishing villages into ports of call for small boats and yachts. The local population quickly caught on to the advantages of tourism, and these days, you can usually find espresso and other modern "necessities." Unlike the polished seaside resorts of the western Mediterranean or the Greek islands, however, the Turkish Mediterranean still comes with a bit of a pleasingly rugged and untamed edge.
The only problem with the destinations in this guide is that a truly satisfying overview requires no less than 2 weeks, and that doesn't even take into account the irresistible draw of a Blue Voyage. For those with the luxury of time, the coast should be tackled by car or dolmus (minivan-type public transportation) from end to end between Antalya and Dalaman, as both are served by airports. Ideally, you'll want to avoid the winter months, because this sunny destination is best explored at its peak (and the coastline is eerily silent in winter). For those with limited time, I recommend the chockablock destinations of the Fethiye or Kalkan/Kas areas, although my heart is heavy at abandoning some of my most memorable moments in the seclusion of the Datça Peninsula, in the twilight calm at the fires of Olympos, and in the restorative settings of some of the coastline's more isolated lodging. But then again, I'm confident that you'll come back.
