What's New

I am still waiting for the edition of this guide where I can open it up by saying that, finally, things have become more affordable in Italy. This won't be the year. The exchange rate has not gotten better for U.S. visitors, and there has not been any discernable decline in the number of tourists to Tuscany that might spur a cutback in prices. Museums have indeed increased admission fees, a few restaurants have modestly padded their prices, but there is, happily, one sector that has bucked the trend and kept prices steady -- if not decreased them altogether: hotels.

I was having a chat in rural Tuscany with a couple who owns hotels in both the countryside and in Florence, and they said that in neither case could they boost rates in 2007, because there is too much competition in the field. Everyone with a few extra bedrooms and some skills as a cook has started a bed-and-breakfast. This has noticeably increased the supply of available beds, apparently outpacing the growing number of visitors eager to fill them.

At the same time, this trend has also led, in some small way, to an increase in the quality of options available, as hotels add pools, spas, and wireless Internet connections. (Note that owing to post-Sept 11 security laws in Italy, all wireless Internet users must register with the hotel, and the hoteliers must keep logs, so Big Brother can keep an eye on what is being viewed.)

Bear in mind that the prices listed here reflect those for high-season rack rates, and much better rates are available in the winter and when booked online. Also check the hotels' websites for last-minute deals.

The Chianti -- Opening an agriturismo has become a welcome trend in Chianti and in the rest of rural Tuscany, so in this book I've included only the most notable ones. Many also offer cooking classes -- some for novices, some for more advanced gourmands. In any case, you later eat what you prepare. This hasn't had any apparent negative effect on restaurant revenues in town; in fact, this year saw the opening of what is sure to become a Chianti landmark, a meat-eater's paradise called Solociccia (tel. 055-852-727), owned and run by the poet-butcher of Panzano, Dario Cecchini.

Siena -- Siena has been rather quiet since 2004, when a crypt -- containing a cycle of 13th-century frescoes -- was discovered beneath the city's cathedral. These days, wine tourism seems to be the main draw. Most hotels offer some kind of guided van tour of the Chianti vineyards, and the city's tourist office has regular tours for 35€ ($46) per person. Have a look for yourself at www.sienaholidays.com.

Volterra -- New museums in Italy are often short-lived fads to be avoided, but Volterra's new alabaster museum is not a fad so much as it is something that should have been built long ago. It is small, but the artifacts are of genuine value. Note that the SITA buses that once ferried you back and forth to the hilltop town are now run by the unfortunately named T.R.A.I.N. agency.

Prato -- After a decade, restoration of the famous fresco cycle in the city's cathedral is at last complete. Restoration work on Prato's fortress is also finished, although, as usual, few tourists seem to have noticed, continuing to ignore this gem of a city just 15 minutes from Florence.

Lucca -- Lucca remains my favorite town in Tuscany, and it seems that lots of other tourists agree. It has dabbled in its newfound fame by adding museums devoted to comic books and to Leonardo da Vinci, both ventures of questionable merit, but the new tradition of the Puccini Festival, an intimate, nightly Puccini opera concert in San Giovanni, is unquestionably worth a visit -- and maybe an encore appearance (tel. 349-366-3453; www.puccinielasualucca.com).

Pisa -- The talk of the town is Delta Airlines' new nonstop New York-Pisa flight, which should make visiting Tuscany much easier -- and hopefully will spur some much-needed investment in the city's hotel sector, which has been stagnant, it seems, for more than a decade. Meanwhile, the Museo Navi Antiche di Pisa (tel. 050-21-441 or 055-321-5446; www.navipisa.it), containing recently excavated Roman ships and their preserved ancient cargo, is still under wraps, possibly reopening in 2009 (however, it's best not to hold your breath).

Livorno -- I've been kicking poor Livorno around for so long now, it's time to give credit where credit is due: The city recently overhauled the waterfront along its southern shore, adding a promenade reminiscent of something out of Cannes or Nice. It's a bit far from the city center by foot, but it's worth the bus trip, especially for the fish restaurants tucked into the walkway's greenery.

Montepulciano -- Along with Montalcino, Montepulciano has been riding high on the tidal wave of interest in wine tourism in Tuscany. A number of entrepreneurs have opened apartments for rent: Just walk down the street and count the AFFITACAMERE signs.

Cortona -- The church of San Francesco is back and open to tourists after a very lengthy hiatus, and the Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca (tel. 0575-630-415 or 0575-637-235; www.accademia-etrusca.org/museo) has welcomed back a number of relics taken from the museum long ago.

Assisi -- Ten years after one of the most devastating earthquakes in Central Italy destroyed most of this pilgrim's paradise and sacred basilica, Assisi is, at last, completely back to normal. The final touches on the cathedral and fortress were added in 2006, and even the town shows few or none of the scars that littered its streets for a decade.