Active Pursuits

Just west of Ubud, the Ayung River has some good whitewater rafting and kayaking. The rapids aren't too impressive for experienced rafters, but the scenery along the way is, with rice paddies, deep gorges, and photo-op waterfalls. Two-hour trips include all equipment, hotel pickup, and lunch; most hotels can make the reservations. You can also contact Bali Adventure Tours (tel. 361/721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) or Sobek (tel. 361/287059).

Ubud is surrounded by fascinating villages, scenic rice paddies, gorges, and rivers, and roads and paths lead to all of them. You can just wander, but I strongly urge you to buy a copy of the Ubud Surroundings map, available in all shops. Then head for the picturesque village of Penestanan or go on the rigorous Campuhan Ridge walk. Hiring a local guide is also a good option.

Ever seen a Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker? For an interesting day, meet up with famed author and naturalist Victor Mason (tel. 361/975009 in the daytime, or tel. 812/29313801 in the evening; su_birdwalk@yahoo.com) for his popular bird-watching tour of Ubud. Tours cost US$33 (£18) and leave Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from the bridge at Tjampuhan in the northeastern end of town. You're bound to see a good many of Bali's 100 species of birds. The scenic walk includes lunch, water, and binocular use.

Spa Treatments for All Budgets -- Repeat visitors to Ubud are escapists, spiritual seekers, and relaxation junkies. The Ubud Body Works Center (25 Hanuman Rd.; tel. 361/975720; www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com) focuses on Balinese healing techniques; while the atmosphere isn't luxe, the massages and body scrubs are fantastic and inexpensive. All of the high-end resorts have good spa services as well; Ibah (tel. 361/974466; www.ibahbali.com) and the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan (tel. 361/977577; www.fourseasons.com) are the best among them.

Scaling the Heights: Bali's Volcanoes

Gunung Agung, the tallest peak on the island at 3,014m (9,886 ft.), is quite a spectacle, visible from as far away as the island of Lombok and from high buildings in busy Kuta. It is a grueling 5-hour climb to the top. Easier is nearby Gunung Batur, Agung's little brother, just a few hours' hike. Both Batur and Agung are still active volcanoes, with eruptions as recent as 1997. Start before first light to catch the dawn. From the top, you can see the geothermally active surrounding crater, the volcanoes of nearby Lombok, and the looming peak of Agung.

Lots of small storefront outfitters arrange group bus tours and private transport. The area makes for a good overnight, too, though it can also be done as a day trip from Ubud. Rooms in the very basic lodging at the base of Mount Batur start at Rp30,000 (US$3.30/£1.85). The town of Penelokan, a name that means "moved people" (a result of volcanic activity), stands at the rim of the crater. Lakeview Hotel and Restaurant (tel. 366/51394; www.indo.com/hotels/lakeview) is a good bet, with deluxe rooms from US$30 (£17). All rooms face the lake (thus the moniker), and helpful staff can arrange transport and trekking at a cost just slightly higher than if you go down and make your own arrangements at the trail head.

You do need a guide, however. It's not just the rules; it's a good idea. The sad part is that the local mafia masks itself as a government agency and controls the mountain guides. The cost of a tour, which includes transportation, a guide, and a breakfast of eggs, bananas, and bread, is a rather expensive US$45 (£25) per person; try to bargain down to US$35 (£19). It's best to arrange any hiking plans at your guesthouse or hotel. Be sure to be fastidious and specific about details: Is it a private tour? Is breakfast included? What route will you follow?

There are a few different routes up both peaks. Most follow the trail to the main viewing point near the top of Batur (there's a little lean-to where folks have breakfast and wait for the sunrise). From there, you can follow a short loop to the various craters. You can arrange for a basic tour and then offer the guide a little extra for an upgrade.

It makes for a fun morning, which you can follow with a visit to the small hot springs near the lake. This is a stunning part of the island and certainly worth the trip.