Ubud's nightlife scene is growing, but still rather sedate. Jazz Café (Jalan Sukma 2, east of Monkey Forest Rd.; tel. 361/976594), has good live jazz. There are lots of little laid-back places along Monkey Forest Road that are more than happy to stay open late. Upscale Lamak (tel. 361/974668; www.lamakbali.com) stays up, but its scene is mostly calm. For a night of drinking and fun, hit Naughty Nuri's (tel. 361/977547), where most dinners turn into a romp. Exiles Café (Jalan Pengosekan; tel. 361/974812) is where the disenfranchised come to fraternize and get anesthetized, particularly on Saturday nights; it's located just to the southeast of central Ubud.
For an evening of culture, there are usually several dance, music, and shadow-puppet performances to choose from every night in Ubud, both at the Royal Palace and on other nearby stages. A barong performance at the Royal Palace is the best and most stimulating choice; even the kids will like it. Touts selling tickets are ubiquitous; ask at any front desk for a recommendation.
