Ubud Attractions

As you explore Ubud and make friends with the locals and expats, you will hear different stories about the legends and histories of local temples from guides, scholars, and professors alike. There really isn't one correct answer here.

Art Galleries

Don't pass up the free galleries around town, especially on Jalan Raya Sanggingan going north toward the more high-end resorts.

A Rare Treat -- The Bali Purnati Center for the Arts, Jl. Gunung Abang, Banjar Penataran, Negara Batuan (tel. 0361/294590; fax 0361/294591; www.balipurnati.com), has interesting cultural exchanges and events that include performing and visual arts, music, and film. The only way to find out what is on is to call up and see if you get lucky. Opportunities to view live performances don't happen often but if they do you might catch a Wadaiko drum troupe from Japan, a stage performance of I La Galigo by renowned theater direct Robert Wilson, or the Kronos Quartet. Accommodations (eight units; year-round US$80; AE, MC, V) here are normally reserved for exchange programs and theater groups, but if you are interested in staying here just call ahead and see if there's space available.

Cooking Classes

Classes typically include a morning at the local market and an afternoon in the kitchen. Casa Luna Cooking School, Jl. Raya Ubud (tel. 0361/971257; www.casalunabali.com; Rp300,000-Rp400,000), is run by expat Australian Janet de Neefe and her Balinese husband Ketut Suardana. Classes are held at Janet's Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse. Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan (tel. 0361/982700; www.ubudhanginggardens.com; US$45 minimum two persons, includes lunch), also offers classes with a market and village visit.

Chris Salans, the renowned chef who has made Mozaic one of the finest restaurants in Southeast Asia, shares his prowess with the lucky few who book ahead for his remarkable cooking classes (tel. 0361/975768; www.mozaic-bali.com; half-day class US$90, full day US$130, professional class full day US$130; minimum four participants). Each student gets their own recipe book and apron. Even if you don't quite get it right at home you can at least look the part.

Spas

All of the high-end resorts have good spa services and there are some mom-and-pop-type operations that will really surprise your purse strings as well as your body. Today it isn't just flower baths and foot scrubs, you will also find alternative and independent wellness centers and detox spas. Spas are open daily.

The Mother Earth of spas, COMO Shambhala's wellness retreat (single treatment US$80-US$150; AE, DC, MC, V; 10am-7pm) has tailor-made programs prescribed after consultation with a team of professionals, including ayurvedic doctors, nutritionists, and psychologists. Colonic hydrotherapy and herbal cleansers are popular here. Your specialists will prescribe daily yoga or martial arts, which help balance your doshas -- Sanskrit for "fault" or "imbalance." Not that you would have any of those, but just in case, this is your place. Take advantage of the chlorine-free pool, with massage jets. The raw food menu is thankfully as tasty as it is nutritious.

The spa at Kayumanis, Sayan (tel. 0361/9727777; single treatment US$35-US$300; package US$230-US$435; AE, DC, MC, V; 8am-6pm) is all about some serious pampering. A signature is "Sensory Surrender": a 6-hour treatment that begins with a brief yoga session and refreshing walk followed by a warm tea tree oil body scrub then a tea tree oil -- infused bath before being wrapped in a concoction of frangipani and coconut. This is followed by a warm volcanic stone massage and then a simultaneous foot massage and facial.

The Kirana Spa, in the Royal Pita Maha (Kedewatan; tel. 0361/976333; www.kiranaspa.com; 1-hr. treatments US$100, 2 hr. US$180, 3 hr. US$320, half-day US$400, 1-day US$490; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-9pm) is a joint production between Japan's leading cosmetics company Shishedo (the first such spa outside Japan) and Ubud's royal family. The menu has just five polished and perfect treatments. You can have a spa treatment only or combine the spa time with relaxing in the gardens and swimming pool.

The Mango Tree Spa at Kupu Kupu Barong (single treatment US$60-US$90, specials US$70-US$125; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-9pm), sits in a mango tree and uses L'Occitane products. You literally have to climb a tree to reach the spa villas but fortunately stairs are provided for the tender footed.

The award-winning spa in the Maya Ubud Resort (single treatment US$60-US$75, package US$121-US$175; AE, DC, MC, V; 8am-8pm) is suspended down a gravity-defying cliff. Blending effortlessly with the colors of nature, the spa pavilions all are made with local materials and include outdoor bathtubs that sit with the waters of the Petanu River.

Spa Alila, in Alila Ubud (single treatment US$45-US$65, package US$78-US$170; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-9pm), has excellent therapists who warm up with a daily yoga session for themselves to get in the right frame of mind for working on you. The local treatments made from green tea, bamboo, and virgin coconut oil proved so popular that they have started to sell them to guests. The Alila Recovery signature massage includes techniques from Thai, Swedish, and Balinese massage.

At Spa Hati, Jl. Raya Andong 14 (tel. 0361/977578; www.spahati.com; single treatment Rp70,000-Rp185,000, package Rp530,000; MC, V; 9am-9pm), you can feel good as well as do good since all of the proceeds go to support the expansion and upkeep of the Bali Hati School for children in Mas. Of the nine treatments on offer, guests can choose from a 60-minute Blissful Journey massage or Rapture, a 90-minute treatment that includes a rejuvenating body scrub and two well-trained masseuses who will massage away any remnants of jet lag.

The spa at Four Seasons Sayan (massage US$55-US$190, body treatment US$55-US$270, package US$145-US$450; AE, DC, MC, V; 9am-9pm), universally accepted as one of the best spas in Bali, has a permanent expatriate spa director, which shows how serious they are about pampering. The Suci Dara Ayurvedic experience is delivered with Indian aromatic herbal oils that will have you seeing out of your third eye. Take advantage of the new watsu pool and have a "rebirthing experience," which gets to your inner child with skillfully guided water stretches and movements.

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Ubud Shopping

As the artistic and cultural center of Bali, Ubud is a great base from which to source antiques and artifacts, jewelry and silver, textiles, baskets and bamboo, art, and stone and wood carvings. While most things in Ubud are within walking distance, it is worth hiring a car if you are going to hit the outer villages described above. Larger shops take credit cards but the smaller ones often are cash only. Credit card transactions normally incur a 3% commission. Most shops open daily by 9am and close by 9pm, though you'll find places that stay open as late as 10pm.

Jalan Raya Ubud, beginning at about Antonia Blanco's Museum and ending at around the Bamboo Gallery, has several great antiques and artifacts stores, art galleries, as well as the highly recommended Neka Art Museum. Monkey Forest Road is lined with outlets selling beads, silver jewelry, cotton and casual apparel, paintings, fabrics, handicrafts, faux designer goods, and some tribal arts and antiques.

The Ubud Market, southeast corner of Monkey Forest Road and Jalan Raya Ubud, is open daylight hours. Booths sell handicrafts, fans, batik bags, fabrics, baskets, and jewelry. Everything is affordable but be sure and bargain. The big market is held every 3 days or so when women come in from nearby and mountain villages to sell and buy livestock, hardware, fruits, vegetables, and many other goods.

Getting the Real Deal -- When in Batubulan, make sure you are buying a carved stone piece not a cheaper mass produced artwork that is molded rather than carved from lava-stone "concrete." Unless you have a trained eye, you may not be able to tell. Always ask and look for lines that are the tell-tale signs of mold work.

Some unscrupulous carvers in Mas sell cheaper woods as sandalwood (cenana), which is an extremely expensive material mainly from East Timor. The tricks include rubbing oil on the carvings or packing them in sandalwood chips. It is hard to tell the real deal so either go to a trusted source or assume the worst and alter your price accordingly.

Furniture & Housewares

Murni's Warung is filled to the brim with Indonesian artifacts, antiques, sculptures, masks, memorabilia, and the odd remnant of the Dutch colonial area.

Take a Jewelry Tour

Visit the John Hardy workshop in Mumbul near Ubud (Banjar Baturning, Mambul, Abiansemal, Badung; tel. 0361/469888; www.johnhardy.com; by appointment only) and watch the production of the John Hardy jewelry brand. An organic lunch is followed by a trip to their showroom where jewelry is 50% off retail prices back home. The quality of craftsmanship here is mesmerizing.

The Threads of Life

The handmade, unique textiles at Threads of Life, Jl. Kajeng 24 (tel. 0361/972187; www.threadsoflife.com) are dyed and woven by local women thanks to the support of a nonprofit organization intent on revitalizing and sustaining this traditional Balinese art form. All proceeds support the organization's research, work, and communities.

Ubud Nightlife

Ubud's nightlife scene is growing, but it's still rather sedate. Jazz Café, Jl. Sukma 2, east of Monkey Forest Road (tel. 0361/976594), has good live jazz. Monkey Forest Road has lots of little laid-back places that are more than happy to stay open late. Upscale Lamak (tel. 0361/974668; www.lamakbali.com) stays up, but its scene is mostly calm. For a night of drinking and fun, hit Naughty Nuri's, where most dinners turn into a romp. Next door is Ozigo (tel. 0812367973) where if you have had enough of Nuri's martinis you will most likely love the live music and nightly DJ entertainment. Café Exiles, Jl. Pengosekan (tel. 0361/974812) is where the disenfranchised come to fraternize, particularly on Saturday night; it's just to the southeast of central Ubud.

Dance & Cultural Performances

Every night in Ubud and the surrounding villages features several dance, music, and shadow-puppet performances. A barong performance at the Royal Palace is the best and most stimulating choice; even the kids will like it. Many of the hotels do small evening shows, inquire with your concierge.

Listings below followed by *** mean that free transport is provided from the Ubud Tourist Information (tel. 0361/973285) kiosk, on Jalan Raya Ubud near the intersection of Monkey Forest Road. Get tickets and information at Ubud Tourist Information, ticket sellers on the street, or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

Agung Rai Museum of Art***

Kecak Dance Full/New Moons 7pm 100,000 (150,000 including Balinese dinner)

Mepantigan Arts Thurs 6:30pm 100,000

Barong & Kris Dance Fri (except Full/New Moons) 6pm 75,000 (135,000 including Balinese dinner)

Wayang Wong Sat 7pm 75,000 (135,000 including Balinese dinner)

Legong Classic Sun 7:30pm 75,000 (135,000 including Balinese dinner)

Bale Banjar

Women Gamelan & Dance Group Mon & Fri 7:30pm 65,000

Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance Tues 7:30pm 75,000

Chandra Wira Buana Wed 7:30pm 75,000

Balerung Mandera***

Legong & Barong Dance Tues & Fri 7:30pm 100,000

Legong Dance Fri 7:30pm 100,000

Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Sun 7:30pm 100,000

Bentuyung Village***

Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Sun & Fri 7pm 80,000

Kertha Accomodation

Wayang Kulit Tues & Sat 8pm 75,000

Lotus Pond Open Stage

Women Gamelan with Children Dancers Tues 7:30pm 80,000

Janger Dance Sun 7:30pm 80,000

Monkey Forest

Wayang Kulit Tues & Sat 8pm 65,000

Oka Kartini's

Wayang Kulit Wed, Fri, Sun 8pm 75,000

Padang Tegal

Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wed, Sat, Sun 7pm 75,000

Pondok Bamboo

Wayang Kulit Mon & Thurs 8pm 75,000

Pondok Pekak

Frog Dance Sat 7:30pm 75,000

Gamelan & Dance Sun 7:30pm 75,000

Pura Dalem, Taman Kaja

Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Mon & Fri 7:30pm 75,000

Legong Dance Tues & Sat 7:30pm 65,000

Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wed & Sat 7:30pm 75,000

Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Wed 7pm 80,000

Barong & Keris Dance Thurs 7:30pm 75,000

Pura Desa Kutuh

Spirit of Bali Tues 7:30pm 75,000

Legong Dance Thurs 7:30pm 75,000

Pura Padang Kertha

Kecak & Fire Dance Fri 7pm 75,000

Pura Taman Sari

Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Thurs 7:30pm 75,000

Puri Agung, Peliatan***

Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Thurs 7:30pm 80,000

Legong Dance Sat 7:30pm 80,000

Ubud Palace

Legong Dance Mon & Sat 7:30pm 80,000

Ramayana Ballet Tues 7:30pm 80,000

Legong & Barong Dance Wed 7:30pm 80,000

Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Thurs 7:30pm 80,000

Barong & Rangda Dance Fri 7pm 80,000

Legong of Mahabarata Sun 7:30pm 80,000

Ubud Water Palace

Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Thurs 7:30pm 80,000

Legong Dance Sat 7:30pm 80,000

Wantilan

Barong & Kris Dance Mon 7pm 80,000

Yamasari Stage***

Legong Dance Wed 7:30pm 75,000