If you visit only one temple complex in Rajasthan, it should be Jain. Those at Ranakpur offer the finest examples of the complex and sustained levels of craftsmanship the Jains are renowned for, comparable in every way to the more famous Dilwara Temples at Mount Abu. If anything, a visit here is preferable -- despite being a great deal more accessible, the area is infinitely more peaceful, with less traffic. Known for their ascetism and religious fervor (Jains are not only strict vegetarians, but the most orthodox among them walk with care to ensure no hapless insect should die underfoot due to their carelessness, and wear permanent masks to protect even the tiniest bug from the possibility of being ingested), the Jains put all their passion (and not inconsiderable wealth) into the creation of ornately carved temples. The Ranakpur Temples are jaw-droppingly beautiful, with exquisitely detailed relief carvings (and strangely, a few pieces of tinfoil) covering every inch of pillar, wall, and ceiling. The main triple-volume Chaumukha Temple, built from 1446 and dedicated to Adinatha Rishabdeva, the first Jain tirthankara, or "Enlightened One," is surrounded by 66 subsidiary shrines; inside are 1,444 intricately carved pillars -- not one of them the same. (Incidentally, the land was donated to the Jains by Rana Kumbha, the warrior who built 32 forts, of which Kumbhalgarh is the most famous.) Note that no leather items (including belts and handbags) are allowed on the premises, no photography of the statues or enshrined deities is allowed (general temple pictures are permitted), and you are requested to dress conservatively (legs and shoulders must be covered; you can rent garments at the ticket desk should you require). Jain customs also strictly forbid menstruating women from entering. Note: There are no good accommodations in the immediate vicinity, so it is best to push on to the peaceful and welcoming HRH Aodhi Hotel, near Kumbhalgarh Fort . Or, if you're on your way to Jodhpur, try Rawla Narlai or Deogarh Mahal. If you want to grab an early lunch of authentic Jain food, make your way to the canteen-style eatery near the main temple, which operates between 11:30am and 1pm; if you're visiting late, perhaps stay for an early dinner, served from 5pm until sunset (5:45pm in winter, and around 7pm in summer).

Tip: Two kilometers (1 1/4 miles) north of Ranakpur, you will pass Tribal Dhurrie Udyog, a traditional dhurrie (carpet) "shop" (tel. 0294/241-7833), where you can pick up a beautifully crafted 4*6m (13*20-ft.) carpet for around $75 -- a great deal cheaper than what you'll pay in the cities.