Ristorante-Pizzeria Al Portici

Udine has a large and energetic population of students, and they seem to spend much of their time in this large trattoria with red-checked tablecloths. The pizza oven turns out the most popular fare, but you can also dip into some of the city's simple, casual cuisine here, such as cialzons -- as gnocchi are called here -- which are often stuffed with smoked ricotta cheese, and brovada (a poor man's dish of turnips and pork sausage). Given the establishment's long open hours, you can stop by any time during the day for a coffee or beer, or a glass of some of the excellent Friuli wines.

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