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Umag hits visitors in the face with its huge modern hotels, concrete beach, and banners everywhere advertising the city’s festivals, concerts, restaurants, and annual international ATP Croatia Open tennis tournament. The crowded waterfront shops look more like bus station concessions than resort boutiques, and the atmosphere shouts “vacation package deal.” Savudrija, on the other hand, is a hard-to-find, lazy, rural village on the sea with nothing but vineyards and farmland at its back. The area’s main boost was the opening of the ultra-luxurious Kempinski Hotel Adriatic on the edge of town in August, 2009: a sprawling resort with a plush spa and the 18-hole Golf Club Adriatic.