These three villages at the mouth of the bay were largely destroyed after the 1960 earthquake (on record as the strongest earthquake ever recorded). There's little left from that era, but what did survive were the relics of the 17th-century forts that once protected Valdivia from intruders, and a visit to these ancient relics, and the coastal views, makes for a very pleasant half-day trip -- especially on a sunny day. If you are not planning to visit the coast near Santiago, do so here; there's enough to do and see to keep you occupied for at least a half-day, and Chile's only microbrewery is on the way back to town. Niebla lies 18km (11 miles) from Valdivia and is home to the Castillo de la Pura y Limpia Concepción de Monfort de Lemus (tel. 63/282084), a defensive fort founded in 1671 and renovated in 1767. It's open November through March daily from 10am to 7pm, and April through October from 10am to 6pm, closed Monday; admission is $1.20 (60p), and 60¢ (30p) for kids and seniors. The fort is carved partially out of rock and features details such as cannons and a powder room, as well as a small museum. The town itself is mostly a hodgepodge of seafood restaurants (the best here is Los Castellanos; see "Where to Dine") and tiny houses with the most privileged views anywhere in Chile. There is a good beach for a stroll; enter to the left of the restaurant Las Terrazas.
To get there, take a private taxi for about $7 (£3.50), or grab a colectivo taxi (or micro bus) for $1 (50p) at the waterfront. In the summer, it is possible to take a tour boat to Niebla; in the off season, you'll need to take the road. The trip takes about 15 minutes.
Across the bay sits Corral (take a taxi to get here from Niebla) and the area's first and most powerful fort, the Castillo San Sebastián de la Cruz, built in 1645 and reinforced in 1764. The city itself is a picturesque jumble of brightly painted wooden homes and fishing boats, an old German colony that never really recovered from the tidal wave that wiped out most of the town. To get to Corral, take a tour boat from Valdivia during high season, or take a ferry from the fishing dock just before entering Niebla (let your bus or taxi driver know you're getting off there). The mock soldier battle that once was the highlight of this attraction has been put on hold due to overenthusiastic actors mishandling gunpowder and shooting themselves in the foot; it remains to be seen if the ritual will continue anytime soon.
Either on the way to Corral or on the way back, ask to be dropped off at idyllic Isla Mancera (and ask to be picked up again!) for an easy stroll and a visit to the fort Castillo de San Pedro de Alcántara (tel. 63/212872). Admission is 80¢ (40p) and it's open from November 15 to March 15 daily from 10am to 7pm, and Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 5pm the rest of the year. It was built in 1645 and restored in 1680 and again in 1762 to house the Military Government of Valdivia. Inside the grounds are the crumbling ruins of the San Francisco Convent and an underground supply room. It is possible to walk the circumference of the island in 20 to 30 minutes, and there is a site for picnics with great views.
