Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Bus -- Tur Bus (tel. 600/660-6600; www.turbus.cl) and Pullman (tel. 600/320-3200; www.pullman.cl) leave from the Terminal Alameda in Santiago, located at Av. Alameda 3750 (Metro: Universidad de Santiago), every 15 minutes from 6:30am to 10:30pm (Tur Bus), and 6:10am to 10:10pm (Pullman). The trip takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, depending on traffic, and costs $6.50 (£3.25). In Valparaíso, you'll disembark at the terminal at Avenida Pedro Montt; taxis are available and a good idea at night -- it's possible to walk to the Cerro Concepción funicular in approximately 20 to 30 minutes, but the neighborhood surrounding the bus depot is pretty grimy. During weekends, especially from December to March, it is strongly recommended that you buy your ticket in advance from any Tur Bus or Pullman office in Santiago (your hotel can give you the address of the nearest office).

By Car -- Valparaíso is reached by the highway Ruta 68. Driving to Valparaíso from Santiago is quite easy: Take the Costanera Norte headed west, and follow it all the way to the coast (the Costanera turns into Ruta 68). There are two tolls along the way that each cost 1,200 pesos ($2.30/£1.15) from Monday to 5pm on Friday, and 1,900 pesos ($3.65/£1.85) from 5pm Friday to Sunday. You'll enter Valparaíso and turn into Avenida Argentina, then onto Avenida Pedro Montt, which will take you to downtown. Hotels offer street parking only. If visiting for the day, park in the underground garage on Calle Errázuriz, across from the Plaza Sotomayor, or at Avenida Brasil and Bellavista. Do not park your car full of belongings on the city street at night, as break-ins are common.

By Train -- The Metrotren (also known as the "Merval"; tel. 32/238-1500) connects Viña with Valparaíso, leaving every 5 to 10 minutes from 7:30am to 10pm during weekdays, and every 15 to 20 minutes from 9:30am to 9pm on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. To ride the train, you must purchase a rechargeable card for $1 (50p) that you then charge with enough money to cover the cost of your trip. If you're with friends or family, you need only purchase one card for your group.

Getting Around

Walking is really the only way to see Valparaíso; hilltop streets are confusing and very tight to drive, so park downtown and ride a funicular up. The only exception, considering the strenuous uphill walk, is the Pablo Neruda museum (La Sebastiana) and the City Cemetery.

Visitor Information

The city's municipality has closed its main tourist office and opened two information kiosks, located in the center of Plaza Sotomayer and Plaza Anibal Pinto (tel. 32/293-9365; www.municipalidaddevalparaiso.cl), open Monday though Friday from 10am to 2pm and 3:30 to 5:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10:30am to 5:30pm. There's also an information kiosk at the bus station open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Santiago Adventures (tel. 2/244-2750; www.santiagoadventures.com) offers day trips from Santiago to Valparaíso (combination with Viña) for $125 (£63) per person, based on four passengers, that includes transportation, lunch, and the tour. You can return with the guide to Santiago, or just stay and lodge here at the end of the day. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, see the "Walking Tour" below for information about picking up a detailed walking guide.

Banks and currency exchange can be found along Esmeralda Street. The nearest hospital is in Viña del Mar.

Special Events -- Valparaíso's famed New Year's Pyrotechnic Festival is an event so spectacular even Chileans consider it something they must see at least once in their lives (during the 2007 New Year, the city shot for the Guinness Book of World Records for the largest amount of fireworks exploded in one evening -- 16,000). Thousands of partiers crowd the streets and hilltops to take in the radiant lights that explode over the shimmering bay. You'll want to stake out your "corner" early atop one of the hills. Savvy Chileans arrive in the early afternoon and bring chairs, barbecues, and a day's ration of food and drink to save their viewing platform for the nighttime fireworks display.