Hotels

Less than a decade ago, decent lodging was so scarce in Valparaíso that even the city's own tourism board recommended travelers lodge in Viña. Today, Valparaíso is the epicenter of stylish boutique lodging, whereas Viña is known more for full-scale hotels and resorts with all the bells and whistles and beach access. You'll still spot a few hostales whose pretty, flower-boxed facades belie awful conditions within, but even these establishments are being bought up by hoteliers who see the potential in Valparaíso becoming the next hot tourism destination rather than just a character-rich -- but down-at-the-heels -- city suited only for a day visit.