Valparaíso is nationally famous for its nightlife, especially its bohemian pubs and bars where poets, writers, tango aficionados, sailors, university students, and just about everyone else spend hours drinking, dancing, and socializing well into the early morning hours. In fact, most restaurants and bars do not adhere to a set closing hour, but instead close "when the candles burn down."
That said, given the Valparaíso University here, a lot of these nighttime watering holes draw in a disproportionate amount of young adults. The Cinzano, facing Plaza Aníbal Pinto on Calle Esmeralda (tel. 32/221-3043), is an exception. This traditional and unabashedly kitschy bar/restaurant is known for its kooky tango singers who break out the mic Thursday through Saturday after 10pm. But you need to get here earlier, or you'll end up waiting for a table. La Colombina (tel. 32/223-6254) is frequented by an adult/young adult crowd for its comfortable ambience, live jazz and bolero music, and view of the glittering lights of Valparaíso that spread out below; take a cab or the funicular Ascensor Peral and walk down Paseo Yugoslavo. The Brighton Bed & Breakfast has live music on Fridays and a bar ambience most nights on their hanging terrace. La Playa, Serrano 568 (tel. 32/259-4262), is one of Valparaíso's legendary bar/restaurants, and it draws an eclectic mix of characters who come to eat, drink, and listen to live music or poetry readings well into the early morning.
My pick for a venue dedicated to nightlife action is La Piedra Feliz, Av. Errázuriz 1054 (tel. 32/256788). The bar/dance club is housed within the old storehouse of a shipping company, and it has something for everyone: a trendy subterranean lounge and club with DJs (lounge open Thurs-Sat), a salsa room, tango room, pub, and a stage for live music. Twenty- and thirty-somethings sweat to electronic music at the ultra-cool Mundo Pagano, Blanco 236 (tel. 32/223-1118; www.mundopagano.cl), which has nightly dance parties and occasionally live music. On Cerro Concepción, one of the hippest bars is Gremio, Pasaje Gálvez 173 (tel. 32/222-8394; www.gremio.cl), with periodic arts exhibitions and snacks. Deck 00, Muelle Barón (tel. 32/259-2852), a glass cube building at the end of the dock offers a waterfront view and occasional lounge parties, but you'll need to check their website for info as they open and close on a whim. Bitácora, Cumming 68 (tel. 32/222-6412), is a popular cultural center featuring local artists; there's a bar on the first floor and a second-floor salon dedicated to theater and music.
