Hotels

Everyone in Vancouver is excited about the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, and that includes the city's hotels, which have been upgrading, refurbing, and getting ready for the Olympic-size crowds.

Most hotels are in the downtown area or the West End. Central Vancouver is small and easily walkable, so in both of these neighborhoods you'll be close to major sights, services, and nightlife. Downtown -- the financial district, the area around Canada Place convention center and cruise-ship terminal, and the central shopping-business area around Robson Square -- is buzzing during the day but pretty quiet at night.

One thing to keep in mind when booking a room is that downtown hotels on south Granville Street (the Best Western Downtown Vancouver, Howard Johnson Hotel, and the Ramada Inn and Suites) offer a central location without the high price tag but the area they're in is not very attractive. After years of seediness, this area is now on the fast-track to gentrification, and in a couple of years it likely will be considered trendy. It's not dangerous, but you shouldn't book there unless you have a reasonable tolerance for the tattooed, the pierced, and the panhandling. This portion of Granville is also home to a large concentration of bars and clubs (it's been dubbed the "Entertainment District"), so be prepared for noisy revelry on warm summer Friday and Saturday nights.

The West End is green, leafy, and residential, a neighborhood of high-rise apartment houses, beautifully landscaped streets, and in close proximity to Coal Harbour, Stanley Park, and the best beaches. While downtown gets quiet at night, the West End starts hopping; dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars line Robson and Denman streets.

You'll also find a couple of hotels and some lovely B&Bs in great old houses on the West Side, the area south of False Creek on Granville Island, and in the Kitsilano neighborhood. Staying in "Kits" can be fun because it's a complete neighborhood unto itself and has its own hangout spots on 4th Avenue and around Kits Beach.

Quoted prices don't include the 10% hotel room tax, the 7% provincial accommodations tax, or the 6% goods and services tax (GST). I list the rack rates: the rates you would receive if you walked in off the street and requested a room. By checking the hotel's website, you'll almost always find lower rates, including special "romance packages" and weekend getaway specials.

Bus and/or public transportation information is given only for those hotels listed which are outside of the Vancouver city center.

Reservations -- Reservations are highly recommended June to September and during holidays. If you arrive without a reservation or have trouble finding a room, call the Hello B.C./Super, Natural British Columbia, at tel. 800/435-5622 or 800/663-6000. You can also book a room by going to Tourism Vancouver, 200 Burrard St. (across from Canada Place), or by visiting www.tourismvancouver.com.

Fido-Friendly Hotels -- Vancouver is one of the dog-friendliest cities in the world. Nearly all downtown and West End hotels allow you to check in your canine companion, usually for an added daily charge of C$20 to C$25 (£10-£13).

Bed & Breakfast Registries -- If you prefer to stay in a B&B, the following agencies specialize in matching guests with establishments that best suit their needs:

• Vancouver Bed & Breakfast, 4390 Frances St., Burnaby, B.C. V5C ZR3 (tel. 604/298-8815; fax 604/298-5917; www.vancouverbandb.bc.ca).
• Canada-West Accommodations, P.O. Box 86607, North Vancouver, B.C. V7L 4L2 (tel. 800/561-3223 or 604/990-6730; www.b-b.com).

Downtown & Yaletown

All downtown hotels are within 5 to 10 minutes' walking distance of shops, restaurants, and attractions. Hotels in this area lean more toward the luxurious than the modest, a state of affairs reflected in their prices.

The West End

A 10-minute walk from downtown, the West End's hotels are nestled amid the tree-lined, garden-filled residential streets bordering Stanley Park. Have no fear: You will not be out of the loop if you stay here, though the area's relaxed, beachy ambience is very different from downtown. While the area has fewer hotels than downtown, the choices are more diverse -- and so are the people who live here.

The West Side

Right across False Creek from downtown and the West End is Vancouver's West Side, where you'll find cozy B&Bs and hotels. It's the perfect location if your agenda includes Granville Island; exploration of the laid-back Kitsilano neighborhood and Kits Beach; the Museum of Anthropology and famed gardens on the University of British Columbia campus; the sunken garden at Queen Elizabeth Park; or if you require close proximity to the airport without staying in an "airport hotel."

Staying on the North Shore (North Vancouver & West Vancouver)

The North Shore cities of North and West Vancouver are pleasant, lush, and much less hurried than Vancouver. Staying here also offers easy access to the North Shore mountains, including hiking trails, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, and the ski slopes on Mount Seymour, Grouse Mountain, and Cypress Bowl. The disadvantage is that if you want to take your car into Vancouver, there are only two bridges, and during rush hour they're painfully slow. The passenger-only SeaBus, however, is quick and scenic.

The Lonsdale Quay Hotel, 123 Carrie Cates Court (tel. 800/836-6111 or 604/986-6111; www.lonsdalequayhotel.com.), across the Burrard Inlet from the Canada Place Pier, sits at the water's edge above the Lonsdale Quay Market at the SeaBus terminal. Some rooms have unique harbor and city views. The hotel is completely nonsmoking. Doubles run C$139 to C$450 (£70-£225).