Shopping

Blessed with a climate that seems semitropical in comparison to the rest of Canada, Vancouverites never really developed a taste for indoor malls. Instead, most residents shop on the street. Below are a few thoughts on where to start exploring.

The Shopping Scene

Outside of malls, stores in Vancouver are generally open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm. A few exceptions: Stores on Robson Street stay open later (usually until 9pm), while stores in Kitsilano open later (around 10am). On Sunday most stores are open 11am to 6pm, but a few remain closed all day. Malls such as the Pacific Centre are open from 9am to 7pm Monday through Wednesday, 9am to 9pm Thursday through Saturday, and 10am to 6pm on Sunday. During Christmas shopping season, stores extend their hours from 9am to 9pm 7 days a week.

Robson Street -- It's been said that the corner of Robson and Burrard gets more foot traffic than any other corner in Canada. It's a busy, colorful parade of humanity, with many students, visitors, and residents from Asia (hence the sushi bars and shops with Japanese signs), most with money. Over the past few years, rents have risen so much that Robson Street now mostly offers upscale chain shops and international designer boutiques, though here and there a few local stores survive. Look for high-end clothing and accessories, with a focus on young designer fashions.

South Granville -- The 10-block stretch of Granville Street -- from 6th Avenue up to 16th Avenue -- is where Vancouver's old-money enclave of Shaughnessy comes to shop. Classic and expensive clothiers, housewares, and furniture boutiques predominate. This is also the heart of the gallery district.

Water Street & Gastown -- Though a little too heavy on the souvenir shops, Water Street and Gastown are by no means just a tacky tourist enclave. Look for antiques and cutting-edge furniture, galleries of First Nations art, funky basement retro shops, and up-to-the-minute fashions by local designers.

Main Street -- Antiques, and lots of 'em. From about 19th up to 27th, Main Street is chockablock with antiques shops. Rather than outbid each other, the stores have evolved so that each covers a particular niche, from Art Deco to country kitchen to fine Second Empire. It's fun to browse, and if your eyes start to glaze over at the thought of yet another divan, the area also has cafes, bookshops, and clothing stores.

Granville Island -- A rehabilitated industrial site beneath the Granville Street Bridge, the Public Market is one of the best places to pick up salmon and other seafood. It's also a great place to browse for crafts and gifts. You can also observe potters, silversmiths, and glass blowers as they work their magic. Particularly interesting is Kids Market, a kind of minimall for children, featuring play areas and services for the not-yet-10 demographic. See the Granville Island listing.

Asia West -- If you've never been to Hong Kong, or are just itching to get back, this new commercial area on Richmond's No. 3 Road between Capstan and Alderbridge roads is the place to shop. Stores in four new malls -- the Yaohan Centre, President Plaza, Aberdeen Centre, and Parker Place -- cater to Vancouver's Asian community by bringing in goods directly from the Far East. If the prices seem a bit high, a simple inquiry is often enough to bring them plummeting by as much as 80%.

Punjabi Market -- Just like an imported India, the 4 blocks of Main Street, on either side of 49th Avenue, contain the whole of the subcontinent, shrunk down to a manageable parcel. Look for fragrant spice stalls, sari shops, and textile outlets selling luxurious fabrics -- at bargain-basement prices.

Discount Shopping

The strip of West 4th Avenue between Cypress and Yew streets has recently emerged as consignment-clothing central. New shops open regularly.

Facials to Go

For a great facial, head to Skoah, 1011 Hamilton St. (tel. 877/642-0200 or 604/642-0200; www.skoah.com). This Yaletown spa is open 7 days a week, specializes in facials for men and women, and sells its own line of organic, locally made skin-care products. The 75-minute "Facialicious" treatment (C$90/US$72/£41) includes deep cleansing, exfoliating, delicate extractions, detoxifying, stimulating masks, and a soothing foot and hand massage.

Fashion

Vancouver has the Pacific Northwest's best collection of clothes from Paris, London, Milan, and Rome, in addition to a great assortment of locally made, cutting-edge fashions. It seems that almost every week a new designer boutique opens in Yaletown, Kitsilano, or Kerrisdale. International designer outlets include Chanel Boutique, 900 W. Hastings St. (tel. 604/682-0522); Salvatore Ferragamo, 918 Robson St. (tel. 604/669-4495); Gianni Versace Boutique, 757 W. Hastings St. (tel. 604/683-1131); Polo/Ralph Lauren, the Landing, 375 Water St. (tel. 604/682-7656); and Plaza Escada, Sinclair Centre, 757 W. Hastings St. (tel. 604/688-8558).

First Nations Arts & Crafts

You'll find First Nations art all over the city. You don't have to purchase a pricey antique to acquire original Coast Salish or Haida work. As the experts at the Museum of Anthropology explain, if an item is crafted by any of the indigenous Pacific Northwest artisans, it's a real First Nations piece of art. The culture is ancient yet still very much alive. Galleries will tell you about the artist, and explain how to identify and care for these beautifully carved, worked, and woven pieces. Bold, traditional, and innovative geometric designs, intricate carvings, strong primary colors, and rich wood tones are just a few of the elements you'll find in First Nations crafts.

Even if you're not in the market, go gallery-hopping to see works by Haida artists Bill Reid (the province's best-known native artist) and Richard Davidson, and by Kwakwaka'wakw artist and photographer David Neel.

Food

You'll find salmon everywhere in Vancouver. Many shops package whole, fresh salmon with ice packs for visitors to take home. Shops also carry delectable smoked salmon in travel-safe, vacuum-packed containers. Some offer decorative cedar gift boxes; most offer overnight air transport. Try other salmon treats such as salmon jerky and Indian candy (chunks of marinated smoked salmon), which are available at public markets such as Granville Island Public Market and Lonsdale Quay Market.

Galleries

On the first Thursday of every month, many galleries host free openings from 5 to 8pm. Check the Georgia Straight or Vancouver magazine for listings, or visit www.art-bc.com for more details on Vancouver's art scene.

Sporting Goods

A 2-block area near the Mountain Equipment Co-op has become Outdoor Central, with at least a half-dozen stores such as Altus Mountain Gear (137 W. Broadway; tel. 604/876-2525; www.altusmountaingear.com); Great Outdoors Equipment (222 W. Broadway; tel. 604/872-8872); and AJ Brooks (147 W. Broadway; tel. 604/874-1117; www.ajbrooks.com). Just a block north on 8th Avenue, you'll find Taiga (380 W. 8th Ave.; tel. 604/875-8388; www.taigaworks.ca), which carries inexpensive fleece and other quality outdoor gear.

In the past few years, the corner of 4th Avenue and Burrard Street has become the spot for high-quality snow/skate/surfboard gear as well as the place to see top-level boarders and their groupies hanging out. Shops here include Pacific Boarder (1793 W. 4th Ave.; tel. 604/734-7245; www.pacificboarder.com), and the particularly noteworthy West Beach (1766 W. 4th Ave.; tel. 604/731-6449; www.westbeach.com), which sometimes hosts pro-skate demos on the half-pipe at the back of the store. Thriller (3467 Main St.; tel. 604/736-5651; www.thrillershop.com), is another well-known shop carrying independent labels and accessories for surfers and boarders real and wannabe.

Wine

Ten years of restructuring, reblending, and careful tending by French and German master vintners have won the province's vineyards world recognition. When buying B.C. wine, look for the VQA (Vintner Quality Alliance) seal on the label; it's a guarantee that all grapes used are grown in British Columbia and meet European standards for growing and processing.

Summerhill, Cedar Creek, Mission Hill, and Okanagan Vineyards are just a few of the more than 50 local estates producing hearty cabernet sauvignons, honey-rich ice wines, and oaky merlots. These wines can be found at any government-owned LCB liquor store, such as the one at 1716 Robson St. (tel. 604/660-4576) and at some privately owned wine stores.

A Special Vancouver Experience: Asian Night Markets

Whether you're hoping to sample steamed dumplings, pick up a tin of oolong tea, or just poke around a fascinating scene, visiting one of Vancouver's Asian night markets is great fun. Throughout the summer, both Pender and Keefer streets in historic Chinatown are closed to make room for the Chinatown Night Market (www.vcma.shawbiz.ca). Styled after Asian marketplaces where shopping is personal and haggling is the name of the game, stalls and tables are loaded with bargain-priced merchandise, including CDs, garments, novelties, watches, food, and accessories. Enjoy horse-drawn carriage rides on Fridays, entertainment shows on Saturdays, and family fun and games on Sundays. The market runs every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, May 18 to September 9, from 6:30 to 11pm. In Held in Richmond, about 30 minutes from downtown Vancouver, the Richmond Night Market (www.richmondnightmarket.com) is an all-out event that feels like a summer festival with up to 15,000 visitors in 1 night. Over 300 booths sell merchandise from all over the world, and over 50 food vendors cook up a storm to please both curious and hungry samplers. Entertainment is also a big part of the market with various performers during the evening. The market runs from May 18 through October 8 every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.