Wildlife Watching

Vancouver is an internationally famous stop for naturalists, ecotourists, pods of orca whales, and thousands of migratory birds; so bring your camera, binoculars, and bird-spotting books. Salmon, bald eagles, herons, beavers, and numerous rare, indigenous marine and waterfowl species live in the metropolitan area.

Orcas, or killer whales, are the largest mammals to be seen in Vancouver's waters. Three pods (families), numbering about 80 whales, return to this area every year to feed on the salmon that spawn in the Fraser River starting in May and continuing into October. The eldest female leads the group; the head of one pod is thought to have been born in 1911. From April through October, daily excursions offered by Vancouver Whale Watch, 12240 2nd Ave., Richmond (tel. 604/274-9565; www.vancouverwhalewatch.com), focus on the majestic whales plus Dall's porpoises, sea lions, seals, eagles, herons, and other wildlife. The cost is C$105 (US$89/£48) per person. The same adult rates apply at Steveston Seabreeze Adventures, 12551 No. 1 Rd., Richmond (tel. 604/272-7200; www.seabreezeadventures.ca), but the price for seniors is C$89 (US$76/£36) and for children it's C$59 (US$50/£27). Both companies offer a shuttle service from downtown Vancouver.

Thousands of migratory birds following the Pacific flyway rest and feed in the Fraser River delta south of Vancouver, especially at the 340-hectare (840-acre) George C. Reifel Bird Sanctuary, 5191 Robertson Rd., Westham Island (tel. 604/946-6980; www.reifelbirdsanctuary.com), which was created by a former bootlegger and wetland-bird lover. Many other waterfowl species have made this a permanent habitat. More than 263 species have been spotted, including a Temminck's stint, a spotted redshank, bald eagles, Siberian (trumpeter) swans, peregrine falcons, blue herons, owls, and coots. The Snow Goose Festival, celebrating the annual arrival of the huge, snowy white flocks, is held here during the first weekend of November. The snow geese stay in the area until mid-December. (High tide, when the birds are less concealed by the marsh grasses, is the best time to visit.) An observation tower, 3km (2 miles) of paths, free birdseed, and picnic tables make this wetland reserve an ideal outing spot from October to April, when the birds are wintering in abundance. The sanctuary is wheelchair accessible and open daily from 9am to 4pm. Admission is C$4 (US$3.40/£1.80) for adults and C$2 (US$1.70/£1) for seniors and children.

The Richmond Nature Park, 1185 Westminster Hwy. (tel. 604/718-6188), was established to preserve the Lulu Island wetlands bog. It features a Nature House with educational displays and a boardwalk-encircled duck pond. On Sunday afternoons, knowledgeable guides give free tours. Admission is by donation.

To hook up with local Vancouver birders, try the Vancouver Natural History Society (tel. 604/737-3074; www.naturalhistory.bc.ca/VNHS). This all-volunteer organization runs birding field trips most weekends; many are free.

During the winter, thousands of bald eagles -- in fact, the largest number in North America -- line the banks of the Squamish, Cheakamus, and Mamquam rivers to feed on spawning salmon. To get there by car, take the scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway (Hwy. 99) from downtown Vancouver to Squamish and Brackendale; the trip takes about an hour. The route winds along the craggy tree-lined coast of Howe Sound through the town of Britannia Beach and past two beautiful natural monuments: Shannon Falls and the continent's tallest monolithic rock face, the Stawamus Chief. Alternatively, you can take a Greyhound bus from Vancouver's Pacific Central Station, 1150 Station St. (tel. 604/482-8747; www.greyhound.ca); trip time is 1 1/4 hours. Contact Squamish & Howe Sound Visitor Info Centre (tel. 604/892-9244; www.squamishchamber.bc.ca) for more information.

The annual summer salmon runs attract more than bald eagles. Tourists also flock to coastal streams and rivers to watch the waters turn red with leaping coho and sockeye. The salmon are plentiful at the Capilano Salmon Hatchery, Goldstream Provincial Park out on Vancouver Island, and numerous other fresh waters.

Stanley Park and Pacific Spirit Park are both home to heron rookeries. You can see these large birds nesting just outside the Vancouver Aquarium. Ravens, dozens of species of waterfowl, raccoons, skunks, beavers, gray squirrels (imported from New York's Central Park decades ago), and even coyotes are also full-time residents. The Stanley Park Ecological Society (tel. 604/257-8544) runs regular nature walks in the park. Call or check their website (www.stanleyparkecology.ca) for more information, or drop by the Lost Lagoon Nature House in Stanley Park.