Bars & Pubs

Vancouver has loosened up a great deal in the last few years. Until recently, patrons in a restaurant could drink only if they were eating or had the intention of eating. Nowadays, Vancouver drinkers can stand tall and order that beer with no fear of being forced to purchase a token cookie or french fry. Even better, bars can now regularly stay open until 2am, and as late as 4am in peak summer months.

That said, officialdom in the city still doesn't love the late-night crowd. They seem to look on drinkers and revelers as an unfortunate byproduct of urbanism, and bars as a necessary evil. City policy has been to concentrate the city's pubs and clubs into two ghettos -- er, entertainment zones -- one along Granville Street and the other along Water and Pender streets in Gastown. Yaletown has recently become a third, more upscale, bar/lounge/club zone. Pubs and clubs can be found in other places, but if you just want to wander out for a serendipitous pub-crawl, the Granville or Water Street strips are best. Speaking generally, Granville Street tends more to Top 40 discos and upscale lounges, while down in Gastown, it's dark cellars spinning hip-hop and house. Yaletown is the newest late-night entertainment/drinking area, a place where martinis reign and some of the restaurants turn into cocktail lounges at 11pm.

Bars Masquerading as Restaurants

One holdover from the bad old days of the liquor license drought is the relatively large number of restaurants that look suspiciously like pubs. You can order food in these places. Indeed, it used to be a condition of drinking (wink, wink), but most patrons stick to a liquid diet.

Bars with Views

You're in Vancouver. Odds are you're aware that this is a city renowned for its views. The entire population could make more money living in a dull flat place like Toronto, but they stay here because of the addicting scenery. As long as that's your raison d'être, you may as well drink in style at one of the places listed. Also check out the view at the new restaurant, Lift; it's in the same Coal Harbour vicinity as Cardero's.

Brewpubs

Don't forget The Dockside Brewing Company, 1253 Johnson St. (tel. 604/685-7070), in the Granville Island Hotel.

Gay & Lesbian Bars

B.C.'s enlightened attitude -- remember, same-sex couples can wed in Canada -- has had a curious effect on Vancouver's queer dance-club scene: it's so laid-back and attitude-free that it's often hard to tell straight from gay, male go-go dancers and naked men in showers notwithstanding. The "Gay Village" is in the West End, particularly on Davie and Denman streets. Many clubs feature theme nights and dance parties, drag shows are ever popular, and every year in early August, as Gay Pride nears, the scene goes into overdrive. The Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 2-1170 Bute St. (tel. 604/684-5307; www.lgtbcentrevancouver.com), has information on the current hot spots, but it's easier just to pick up a free copy of Xtra West!, available in most downtown cafes.