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45km (28 miles) from Megalopolis to Andritsena; 24km (15 miles) from Andritsena to Vassae

Andritsena, with the scent of oregano and the sound of sheep bells everywhere, is one of the most charming Peloponnesian mountain villages. After years with only the desultory Theoxenia Hotel, Andritsena now has several good places to stay and a number of small restaurants. The main street is punctuated by enormous plane trees, several of which have been fitted with pipes gushing forth the delicious local spring water. In the evening, villagers stroll the main street while sheep bells echo in the hills. If you want to get away from it all and spend the night in a Greek mountain village, make it Andritsena. If you can, plan to be in Andritsena on Saturday, when the main street is taken over by the weekly market, an excellent place to buy every manner of bell (for sheep, goat, or cow), as well as mountain tea and herbs.

Vassae is one of the most impressive 5th-century Greek temples, its gray granite columns the perfect complement to its remote mountain setting. Unfortunately, the temple, badly damaged by time and earthquakes, is hidden under a bizarre protective tent that looks rather like the Sydney opera house. In short, the main reason to visit Vassae these days is to see the charming neighboring village of Andritsena.