45km (27 miles) from Megalopolis to Andritsena; 24km (15 miles) from Andritsena to Vassae
Vassae is one of the most impressive 5th-century Greek temples, its gray granite columns the perfect complement to its remote mountain setting. Unfortunately, the temple, badly damaged by time and earthquakes, is now hidden under a bizarre protective tent that looks rather like the Sydney opera house. When fires threatened to engulf Vassae in August 1998, the staff here hosed the tent all day and all night and successfully protected both tent and temple from the flames. Every year, the guard here says that he hopes Vassae will be mended and the tent removed "next year," a phrase that in Greek does not carry the specificity that its English translation suggests. Hearteningly, in the summer of 2000, the Committee for the Preservation of the Temple announced government-funded plans to begin a 20-year restoration. Initially, the foundation along the temple's north end, along with 10 columns, will be restored. Of course, when this vital work begins, and while it goes on, the entire temple itself will be even less visible to visitors.
Although it's perfectly possible to visit Vassae on a day trip from Olympia, Andritsena, with the scent of oregano and the sound of sheep bells everywhere, is one of the most charming of the Peloponnesian mountain villages. There's a welcome new hotel here and a number of small restaurants. The main street is punctuated by enormous plane trees, several of which have been fitted with pipes gushing forth the delicious local spring water. In the evening, villagers stroll the main street while sheep bells echo in the hills. In short, if you want to get away from it all and spend the night in a Greek mountain village, try to make it Andritsena.
