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From Medina Sidonia, follow the C-393 south to Vejer de la Frontera, a distance of 26km (17 miles), usually taking 20 minutes. This is one of the more dazzling Pueblos Blancos. Like most of the other towns we've visited, this Pueblo Blanco also reflects its Moorish history.

Vejer, still partially walled, is in a deep cleft between two hills on the road between Tarifa (southernmost point in Spain) and the port of Cádiz, 10km (6 1/4 miles) inland. Dominated by its castle and a Gothic church, it looks like a town you'd find in the Greek islands.

For orientation, head to the Tourist Office at Avenida de los Remedios (tel. 95-645-17-36; www.vejerdelafrontera.es). Hours are June to August Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm and 6:30 to 8pm. In August it is also open on Saturday from 10:30am to 2pm. In other months, it keeps no set hours.

You can skip most of the monuments and simply enjoy the beauty of the town. Or else you can duck into Iglesia del Divino Salvador, the major church, in back of the Tourist Office. Open daily 11am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm. It's a mix of styles, including Romanesque, Mudéjar, and Gothic.

Castillo Moro or the Moorish castle is reached by heading down Calle Ramón y Cajal from the church. The castle keeps such erratic, changing hours it's best to inquire at the tourist office. Over the years it's been altered drastically, but as of 1000 B.C. it is known to have been some sort of fortress, standing watch over the fishing grounds and factories along the coast for the approach of an enemy vessel by sea. The site was also used by the Phoenicians and Carthaginians long before the coming of the Romans. Even if you can't see the castle, you can admire the panoramic view.