Ristorante Quadri

Dine by candlelight with a view across St. Mark's Square. That's the selling point of this restaurant, which is almost kitschily romantic -- a single red rose, silver dish lids removed with a flourish, threadbare velvet benches, pop ballads by Andrea Bocelli, silk wall coverings, and painted wood ceilings, all in dusty rose shades. The cooking is good, if generally uninspired, and service can be a little sour and short. But the place has got history: In 1725, Giorgio Quadri, from Corfu, and his wife bought this spot and started serving "khava," a dark, caffeinated Turkish drink served hot. As such, "cafes" became popular -- the restaurant sits above an elegant, still-functioning cafe -- Austrian officers made the Quadri their hangout; Italians preferred the Florian across the way. Definitely call ahead -- if possible, a few days in advance -- to get one of the few tables next to a window so you can get that view; otherwise, it's really not worth the prices.

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