Al Covo

For years this lovely restaurant has been deservingly popular with American food writers, putting it on the short list of every food-loving American tourist. There are nights when it seems you hear nothing but English spoken here. But this has never compromised the dining at this warm and welcoming spot, where the preparation of superfresh fish and an excellent selection of moderately priced wines is as commendable today -- perhaps more so -- as it was in its days of pre-trendiness. Much of the tourist-friendly atmosphere can be credited to the naturally hospitable Diane Rankin, the co-owner and dessert whiz who hails from Texas. She will eagerly talk you through a wondrous fish-studded menu. Her husband, Cesare Benelli, is known for his infallible talent in the kitchen. Together they share an admirable dedication to their charming gem of a restaurant -- the quality of an evening at Al Covo is tough to top in this town.

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